Summer is a magical time to visit Rome. It’s warm, yes, but the hours seem to stretch out and slow down in a way you don’t quite get in other seasons. By day, sun-drenched piazzas and cobbled lanes take on an almost dream-like quality, while at night, the city comes alive with open-air festivals, rooftop aperitivos and al fresco dining.
Add to that the fact that many Romans leave for their own vacations during the hotter months – meaning less traffic and fewer queues outside sought-after restaurants – and that a gelato diet becomes completely normal, and you’ve got all the elements needed for the perfect Roman holiday.
Here’s how to spend your summer in the Eternal City.
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Rome’s ancient ruins and architectural wonders could keep you busy for weeks, but for a little respite – and some shade – head to the city's parks. Set aside some time to explore the sprawling Villa Borghese and Villa Doria Pamphilj , home to handsome palaces, impressive art galleries and pretty walks; or climb up the verdant, 88-metre-high hill of Gianicolo, a 12-hectare park dotted with monuments to Giuseppe Garibaldi (the hero of Italy’s unification) and affording sweeping vistas.
Looking for more leafy escapes? Locals love Villa Celimontana , just south of the Colosseum, for its quiet paths and historical vestiges, as well as for the jazz concerts that light it up at night in the summer.
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Markets can be a great place to spend a morning out and about – all the more so if you’re after a memento. Porta Portese , held every Sunday, is a good starting point: its wares span vintage clothes, antiques and books. For a lively market experience, try the Campo de’ Fiori market, where fruit sellers flaunt their produce next to souvenir vendors. Meanwhile, the covered Mercato di Testaccio is a must for street food and artisanal items.
In the evening, make for the banks of the Tiber, which transform into an open-air venue in summer. Music lovers should check out the annual Roma Summer Fest: confirmed headliners for this summer’s edition, from 5 June to 20 September, include Nick Cave & the Bad Seeds, Sting, Einaudi, Sigur Rós and Alanis Morissette.
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Deciding what to see in Rome can feel overwhelming. Summer can help in that respect: with temperatures rising, favour sights and landmarks that offer shade.
Opt for first-rate museums like Galleria Borghese or the opulent Galleria Doria Pamphilj to immerse yourself in Baroque art. Reserve an afternoon for the treasures of the Vatican Museums or admire Renaissance frescoes and medieval firearms in Castel Sant’Angelo, a one-time mausoleum for the emperor Hadrian that was later converted into a papal fortress and now houses a diverse collection of art. Think about the Roman Empire often? Book tickets for the Museo dell’Ara Pacis , which houses the Ara Pacis of Augustus, a major monument from that era.
Rome’s Catacombs should also be among your summer must-sees. Underground burial places dating to early Christian times (between the second and fifth century), they’re not only fascinating but also provide cooler temperatures. The Catacombe di San Callisto are the largest and busiest, but the Catacombe di Domitilla and the Catacombe di San Sebastiano are not to be missed either.
Lastly, beat the heat (and crowds) by wandering the centro storico while everyone else is still asleep. Glimpse the Colosseum at dawn, then enjoy the Pantheon all to yourself. Sant’Eustachio il Caffè (an institution when it comes to seriously good espresso) is just around the corner.
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Chilled, sweet and oh-so refreshing, gelato is the perfect summer food. In Rome, you’re guaranteed to find some of the best. There are many fantastic gelaterie to choose from: Otaleg! in Trastevere and Gelateria dell’Angeletto in Monti, Gelateria dei Gracchi in Prati and Gunther, which has a branch near the Pantheon, to name just a few.
The all-Roman pizza a taglio, aka pizza by the slice, is a staple of quick lunches. The most delicious are thick yet airy and can be found at local institutions like Roscioli , the Forno Campo de’ Fiori and Bonci Pizzarium . Save your most substantial meals for the evening, when the air is cooler, and always go al fresco. Try Trattoria Da Teo in Trastevere for fantastic Roman food, Per Me in the centro storico for an elevated culinary experience and La Torricella in Testaccio for fresh seafood.
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Summer, naturalmente, calls for al fresco drinking. The Eternal City boasts beautiful rooftops from which to enjoy a glass or two during the hot season, from chef Marco Martini’s beautiful Art Nouveau terrazza on the Aventine, one of the seven hills of Rome, to the spectacular Terrazza Borromini by the Piazza Navona. Snap a few postcard-perfect shots, order a spritz and embrace il dolce far niente (the sweetness of doing nothing) as the Romans do.
The Rome Edition, Six Senses Rome and Bvlgari Hotel Roma are all new additions to the city and deliver slick interiors, impeccable service and plush guest rooms. Further leading names in luxury, including Four Seasons, Nobu and Rosewood, are slated to open either later this year or in 2026.
All these properties have beautiful rooftops, which are perfect for watching long, golden days stretch lazily into warm, starlit nights.
Avoid going out in the early afternoon. It’s hot and crowded, and some shops close for a siesta. Hit your hotel pool or visit sheltered sights instead.
Ferragosto is a public holiday that falls on 15 August. Many Romans clear out of the city around then, and while that brings quieter streets and smoother traffic, it also means many restaurants, shops and bars will be closed.
You don’t want to be queuing under the sun, so reserve all your tickets to landmarks, museums and galleries in advance.