Garden in the city

Paul Baker, the head chef at Adelaide’s Botanic Gardens restaurant, has the best larder in the world. He just strolls into the elegant lawns and paths outside his restaurant and there’s a treasure trove of native berries, leaves, vegetables and trees – and they’re all his to use.

Botanic gardens are more usually associated with tea and scones. But in transforming the 19th century pavilion into a temple of contemporary Australian cuisine, he’s also helped turn this venerable institution, founded in 1854, into a very compelling 21st century destination.

The collections span ecosystems and architectural styles – from the exquisite 1877 Palm House to the modernist Bicentennial Conservatory opened 112

years later – but the quirkiest display is the Santos Museum of Economic Botany, a collection dedicated to useful plants. If you have spent your life in search of historic papier-mache models of fruit, your quest is at an end.

environment.sa.gov.au/botanicgardens

Beyond d’Arenburg

Three exceptional South Australian wineries

Hollick, Coonawarra

I remember this place when it was just the owner, an old slab cottage and a few bottles. A couple of decades on, it’s owned by Hong Kong’s Yingda Investment Company. Inside there’s a swish, low-lit tasting room and a very highly regarded restaurant: Upstairs at Hollick.

hollick.com

Zema, Coonawarra

An antidote to the increasing glam and sophistication of Oz cellar doors – just a simple, unfancy, family-owned place with first-class wines.

zema.com.au

Magill Estate, Adelaide Hills

The five-star hotel of tasting rooms – Penfolds goes to town (or just above it) with a fine dining restaurant, café and expert staff in very cool uniforms.

penfolds.com

Thanks to Avis for the vehicle hire.