The landmark: Nagoya Castle

Nagoya’s castle is one of the city’s most iconic landmarks. Completed in 1612 (although rebuilt almost entirely after the Second World War), Nagoya Castle has plenty more than just a historical atmosphere: a ninja training school opened a few years ago, and every weekend the castle hosts a ninja show. Spot the castle’s golden kinshachi (mythical tiger-headed carp) from the 14th century, which symbolised the feudal lord’s authority.

The road trip: The Nakasendo

During that sweet spot between chilly winter and sweltering summer, the preserved stretch of the old Nakasendo highway between the picturesque towns of Magome and Tsumago is perfect for a break away from the city. Part of a route that once connected Kyoto with Edo (today’s Tokyo), the eight-kilometre walk between Magome and Tsumago takes in lush countryside, while the towns’ cobbled streets are lined with historical wooden buildings, some functioning as traditional inns and cafes.

The festival: Iga Ueno Ninja Festa

Iga, 90 minutes southwest of Nagoya, is ninja country. During Japan’s feudal era, the Iga-ryu school of ninjutsu built a legendary reputation for the stealth, speed and guile of its spies and assassins. On weekends from early April until early May, the town celebrates this heritage with the month-long Iga Ueno Ninja Festa – visitors can wander Iga dressed as a ninja, learn how to throw shuriken, use blowguns and sample other dark arts mastered by the ninja.

The dish: Tebasaki

For a country with such vaunted cuisine, chicken wings might seem out of place. Not in Nagoya. Tebasaki is one of the city’s great comfort foods: chicken wingtips deep-fried until the skin is slightly crispy, then dipped in a sweet-savoury glaze that includes soy sauce, rice wine, vinegar and garlic, and given a sprinkle of pepper before a final showering with white sesame seeds. It’s beer’s best friend. For a taste, head to Sekai no Yamachan izakaya, a Nagoya-based chain with dozens of branches across the city. Or there are restaurants like Gomitori, in business since the 1950s, which also does yakitori using premium Nagoya Cochin chicken, as well as regional staples like miso stew and miso katsu.

The hotel: Kyoya Ryokan

A traditional inn with contemporary touches, the nine-room Kyoya Ryokan provides a touch of tranquillity in the heart of Nagoya. The rooms blend classic design features like tatami mat flooring and sliding screen doors with modern wooden decking and sculpted garden views. And with piping-hot communal baths and multi-course dinners featuring a succession of small dishes using in-season ingredients, Kyoya goes all out on the best ryokan traditions.

The neighbourhood: Tokoname

Around 45 minutes south of central Nagoya, the town of Tokoname is all about ceramics. You can visit pretty brick-built workshops here, pick up local Tokoname-ware and take part in a pottery class. In spring and summer there’s also the chance to try digging for clams at Sakai beach – a popular activity among Japanese kids.

The shopping district: Osu Kannon

Now 400 years old, the Osu Kannon shopping district initially served the area’s Buddhist temples (including the one it was named after). With 1,200 businesses, ranging from traditional crafts to cosplay shops, it’s since turned into a wonderful mish-mash of anything goes. That includes festivals like its spring matsuri in early April, a cosplay extravaganza in late July and a festival of street performers in October, as well as the flea market at the Osu Kannon temple which normally take place on the 18th and 28th of every month – making it a good place to dig up a souvenir.

Nagoya essentials

Arriving at Chubu Centrair International Airport, it’s fewer than 30 minutes by train on the Meitetsu Kuko line to Nagoya. A taxi ride into town is pricey: generally more than ¥13,000.

Nagoya is well connected with the rest of Japan: the fastest bullet train to Kyoto takes just over half an hour, while Tokyo can be reached in 100 minutes.

A visit to Nagoya Castle should be high on the list: those interested in meeting a local (and learning a bit about the castle) should join a free English-speaking tour offered by the Aichi Goodwill Guides Network.

Nagoya is easy to navigate, with a network of six subway lines. The Meijo line forms a loop, making it easy to access a number of key attractions. A one-day subway pass is good value for exploring.

This story was originally published in December 2017 and updated in September 2020.