With multiple award-winning establishments across Shanghai, Tokyo and New York, Shingo Gokan is one of the world’s most respected mixologists. In July, he made his debut in Hong Kong with Gokan, a cocktail lounge on the historic Ice House Street. The drinks incorporate the Japanese culinary rule of the “fives”: gokan (five senses), gomi (five flavours), goshiki (five colours), goho (five cooking methods) and goteki (five “appropriates” – temperature, ingredients, amount, technique and timing).
Credit: Elvis Chung
Credit: Elvis Chung
“It’s not just about using Japanese glassware or ingredients, but also about honouring that age-old food philosophy and achieving balance in every element,” says Gokan. Gokan is also an avid traveller and loves going to bars in the cities he visits. Here are some of his favourite destinations for a fine tipple.
Kyushu’s food culture is amazing, and Fukuoka has quite a few outstanding bars, including Bar Oscar, a cosy, two-decades-old institution in the bustling Daimyo neighbourhood. Owner Shuichi Nagatomo is a master of crafting classic drinks, which you’ll find on the menu here. He’s one of the best Japanese bartenders out there. I have many great memories at Bar Oscar and was lucky enough to serve as its first guest bartender years ago.
I used to go snowboarding in Niseko a lot, and Gyu+ is one of my favourite bars there. This old-fashioned speakeasy is hidden behind a fridge door and opens only during ski season, usually for four or five months a year (starting on 1 December this year). The concept is a perfect fit for its location. Once inside, you can warm up with one of the excellent hot cocktails, listen to vinyl records, watch the snow fall outside the big window behind the bar counter and just chill in the cosy, mountain cabin-like setting.
Hong Kong’s bar scene is one of the best and most diverse in Asia. Among the many excellent spots, Bar Leone is one that I really enjoy going to. The drinks here are classic yet unique and refined, and the food is exceptional. I love the casual atmosphere too; Lorenzo Antinori is a friend, and I always have a good time there.
Bangkok is my favourite city in the world – everything from the food to the culture to the people draws me in. My apprentice Anupas “Kong” Premanuwat runs Ku Bar, one of my most cherished drinking spots. Unlike many Thai mixologists who favour sweeter flavours, Kong’s drinks are subtle and balanced – I think he serves some of the best drinks in Thailand.
Another bar that I visit regularly in the same city is BKK Social Club at the Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok at Chao Phraya River, run by Bar Manager and mixologist Philip Bischoff. I love the concept, which is inspired by the glamorous Buenos Aires bar scene of the 1970s and ’80s. On the menu, you’ll find many Argentinian influences, from South American ingredients to drinks named after the country’s cultural icons.
Credit: Joanna Lin
Credit: Todd Coleman
Cocktails are ingrained in New York’s culture, and the bar scene there is always bustling. I love going to Martiny’s in Gramercy Park. This three-floor bar is co-owned by another of my apprentices, Takuma Watanabe, who puts his own spin on the classics with some Japanese influences. His style really suits the New York crowd, who generally prefer clean, balanced, classic drinks over ones that are too complicated or have too many garnishes.