Though situated two hours south of Shanghai, the coastal city of Ningbo in the Zhejiang province of the Chinese Mainland is no second fiddle when it comes to dining culture.
Having experienced decades of economic growth, this natural port features a backdrop of scenic mountains surrounding a bustling metropolis of skyscrapers. However, despite the city’s rapid expansion and burgeoning tourist scene, one thing remains unchanged: its reputation as a haven of seafood. Be it cured, dried, braised, steamed or fried, locals of Ningbo remain constant in their enjoyment of the bountiful treasures from both river and sea.
Food in Ningbo and the greater Jiangnan region is known for different methods that preserve the innate fresh essence of its ingredients. As such, expect cooking styles that enhance the natural textures and flavours of foods that this fertile area on the southern banks of the Yangtze River produces. Here, we’ve rounded up some of the best dishes to try in the city.
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Arguably the most famous speciality food of Ningbo, ‘drunken’, or pickled, crab (zuixie) is the jewel in the crown of the city’s impressive roster of seafood dishes, and the rendition at Ning Hai Shi Fu is nothing short of resplendent. The dish sees blue crab marinated in a pungent mixture of soy sauce and yellow wine, curing the crab meat to a gooey, sumptuous tenderness while simultaneously killing off germs. After sufficient marination, the crab is expertly cut into pieces and served immediately.
Ninghai Restaurant, 96 Wangjing Road, Haishu, Ningbo, +86 574 8722 3777
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Addictively chewy, stir-fried rice cake slices (chao niangao) are a beloved carbohydrate staple within Jiangnan cuisine. At Yong Shang Ming Zao, they’re served braised in a mellow and savoury sauce with a whole pomfret, at once absorbing the flavours and providing a textural backdrop to the delicate fish. There’s a wide selection of other delicacies on offer too. This restaurant fills up quickly, so be sure to arrive with plenty of time to queue up for a table.
Yong Shang Ming Zao, 353 Huancheng West Road South Section, Haishu, Ningbo, +86 574 8739 7779
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It ’s no secret that Ningbo residents adore their seafood, and one of the best ways to enjoy it is with a bowl of freshly made noodles in a rich fish bone broth (haixian mian). At Mu Mu Xian, generous portions are the speciality, with the option to choose from an array of live seafood, including whole blue crabs, yellow croakers, clams, cockles and prawns, alongside egg dumplings and vegetables. Your selection of seafood and choice of noodle are then cooked to order and served in a steaming bowl, brimming with marine delights.
Mu Mu Xian, various locations including: 3 Xieyuan Lane, Baizhang Road, Haishu, Ningbo, +86 189 6624 1226
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The yellow croaker fish is emblematic of Jiangnan cuisine, and in Ningbo, it’s a ubiquitous seafood dish seen on many a restaurant menu. At Zhuang Yuan Lou, one of the city’s oldest dining establishments, you can enjoy it in many forms: steamed with pickled mustard greens (xuecai huangyu); filleted into strips, wrapped in tofu skin and fried to a golden crisp (fupi bao huangyu); or breaded in batter infused with delicate seaweed and then deep-fried (taitiao xiaohuangyu).
Zhuang Yuan Lou, various locations including: Heyi Avenue Shopping Center, 88 Heyi Road, Haishu, Ningbo, +86 574 2796 6666
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There are many forms of tang yuan (glutinous rice balls), but one of the most famous renditions eaten for dessert sees smaller, daintier spheres (yuanzi) served in a slightly syrupy soup flavoured with osmanthus flower and fermented rice wine (jiuniang). Enjoy the contrast between the chewiness of the tang yuan and the soft fermented rice against the fragrant backdrop of the floral scented soup – an ideal way to settle your stomach after a rich meal.
Ah La Mingzao, various locations including: Shop 324, 326 & 328, 326 Zhenming Road, Haishu, Ningbo, +86 153 8189 0373
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At Qing Jia Mu, cured, pickled and raw seafood is the house speciality, though it also serves a tantalising selection of dishes like red-braised pork belly (hongshaorou) and juicy poached drunken prawns (shuzui zhaoxia). In addition to their forte of drunken crab, cured blood clams (maoge) are a must-try delicacy. So named for the bright red colour of their meat, these coin-sized bivalves are marinated in a sweet and savoury sauce along with chopped chilli, garlic and scallions for a bold burst of flavour.
Qing Jia Mu Restaurant, various locations including: 60 Shengyuan Lane (next to Manyue Private Kitchen), Yuehu, Ningbo, +86 158 6724 2661
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Ningbo-style stir-fried eel (ningshi shansi) is one of the most popular dishes at Dong Fu Yuan, a time-honoured restaurant with four locations in the city serving upmarket renditions of Ningbo cuisine in elegantly fitted dining rooms. The dish sees poached eels filleted and sliced into slivers then stir-fried with white Chinese chives, garlic and coriander in a hearty sauce of Chinese cooking wine, soy sauce, sesame oil and sugar. The sweet, savoury and aromatic sauce complements the tender eel slivers, and pairs well with a bowl of white rice.
5 Gongyuan Road, Gulou, Haishu, Ningbo, +86 574 8717 5777
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No round-up of iconic Ningbo dishes would be complete without a mention of the “three stinking delicacies,” known as sanchou, which translates to “three stinks.” The region has a long history of enjoying pungent, preserved foods much like a French blue cheese or Japanese natto beans. Somewhat notorious to uninitiated tastebuds, and indeed noses, the “three stinky delicacies” consist of amaranth tubes (chou xiancai guan), cabbage hearts (chou cai xin) and wax gourd (zhi chou donggua) and are served together or individually as chilled appetisers. Brace yourself for a powerful odour when the dish arrives at the table, but prepare to be pleasantly surprised and perhaps even converted to their rich and unique flavours on the palate. Enjoy this at Tian Zi Jiu, a restaurant serving high-grade Ningbo dishes in serene and modern private dining rooms.
Tian Zi Jiu Restaurant, various locations including: 1058 Songjiang Zhong Road, Gulou, +86 0574 8787 2277
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Comforting, tasty and affordable, mianjie (minced pork wrapped in beancurd) are a beloved noodle topping in Ningbo. At Cang Qiao Mianjie, a street-facing snack and noodle shop that has been open for three decades, the mianjie are boiled in a steaming hot vat along with fried tofu puffs, and then served in noodle soup or with dry mixed noodles.Excellent for soaking up the flavour of the broth, mianjie are often served alongside duck blood cubes, intestine or braised beef tendon, making them a satsifying breakfast or quick meal.
Cang Qiao Mianjie Shop, various locations including: 118 Zhenming Road, Haishu, Ningbo, +86 574 8712 8128