A tangy plume of sweet, acidic steam rises from a large copper pan as the simmering fruits gradually boil down to a glossy, sticky puddle. The alchemy of turning fresh fruits into preserve never ceases to amaze or inspire me.
I vividly remember my first jam encounter: eight years old, apricot jam in a cha chaan teng. I watched as the glistening jelly was spread across freshly buttered toast; eagerly sinking my teeth into the crust and feeling the sweet fruit dribble down my chin.
Fast-forward to my college years. During a bleak Canadian winter, I came across a jar of homemade peach preserve in the pantry. The seal broke with a crisp ‘pop’, revealing a beautiful peach compote inside: hearty morsels of cooked peach drenched in vanilla syrup. I took a spoonful, then another; savouring the warm taste of summer. It was that moment, with that peach jam, that sparked a lifelong passion for the art of preserving.
Working in food media for a decade has only fuelled this fire. Crossing paths with chefs, food producers and restaurateurs from around the world constantly inspires me to recreate flavours – a tribute to their creativity. I ’ve experimented with dessert flavour profiles from peach and raspberry for Melba, to pear and chocolate for Belle Helene. I’ve mixed espresso, maple syrup, bacon and onion to create a rich bacon jam to spread on pizza.
My passion for preserves has given me long-lasting mementos of my travels: the bitterness of Seville oranges and zesty Japanese yuzu; sweet Amalfi lemons and Calabria’s aromatic bergamots. Though for me, nothing matches the exotic allure of quince: an acerbic fruit closely related to apples and pears. With a twist of lemon, gentle heat, and time, the hard yellow flesh magically yields into soft, crimson wedges with a floral aroma and honeyed flavours I can never say no to.
I go out of my way to source quality quinces every year, canning enough to last the next 12 months – but more importantly, to have enough to gift to friends: jams and marmalades are at their best when shared over scones and tea.
Watching friends enjoy the fruits of my passion is perhaps the most satisfying process of all. I watch and understand that it isn’t always about the exclusivity of the product – but the time and effort put into the simple pleasures in life. I believe jam not only preserves the season’s best: it also preserves memories, flavours of distant lands, and the joy of friendship.