Stay here: Hoshino Resorts Kai Kaga review

What’s the deal?

An hour’s drive from Kanazawa in Ishikawa Prefecture, Kaga is home to Hoshino Resorts Kai Kaga , one of the city’s finest lodgings. On the peaceful Yamashiro Onsen Street, this charming 200-year-old onsen ryokan (hot spring inn) features a traditional bengara-goshi (red latticework) façade. The exterior radiates historical charm, while the interiors are steeped in Japanese culture. Through red curtains adorned with umebachi (plum blossom) motifs, a stone-paved path leads to a lofty lobby supported by thick black pillars and rounded wooden beams – all assembled using traditional joinery techniques without a single nail. Mizuhiki (decorative, knotted cord) accents on the beams add a delicate touch to the elegant setting.

The bath halls are equally rich in detail: gender-separated baths are lined with Kutani ceramic ware crafted by eight local artists to reflect the four seasons. Few experiences are more relaxing than soaking in the 1,300-year-old Yamashiro Onsen, surrounded by artisanal masterpieces.

Why stay?

Guestroom layouts are thoughtfully laid out, with a screen separating the living area from the bedroom. Local crafts, such as Kaga yuzen silks and Yamanaka lacquerware, elevate the space’s sophistication. Enjoy a cup of tea in a Kutani vessel on the terrace or unwind in your own private hot spring bath. 

Dining here is a kaiseki experience: meals are inspired by the philosophy of artist and gourmet Rosanjin Kitaoji who believed “the plate is the kimono of a dish”, meaning that ingredients and tableware are complementary to each other. Here, they’re paired with care, turning each course into an edible artwork. We sample Hokuriku-sourced nodogoru (blackthroat seaperch) and abalone set, which was introduced with detailed explanations of each dish and its accompanying ware. Starters include firm tofu dusted with kombu tea powder, vegetables dressed with a sauce of finger lime (a citrus fruit), and shrimp soaked in koji. The main course features crispy abalone steamed in wakame seaweed, followed by clay pot rice with nodoguro, which completes the meal.

After dinner, we head upstairs to Bengara Lounge for a nightcap. Opened last year, the bar invites guests to choose their own ceramic ware from more than 100 pieces to have their drinks and snacks served from. Sip whisky, umeshu or sake while gazing out at the willow-lined onsen street makes for a serene end to the day in this historic retreat.

Cathay editors say... 

“You don’t need a packed itinerary when you stay here – the hotel offers a range of activities, including the popular kintsugi workshop. It’s a wonderful opportunity to explore cultural heritage and sustainability. Don’t miss the nightly Lion Dance performance, which celebrates the samurai spirit.”