The neighbourhood: Nakazakicho

The old houses of Nakazakicho, a short walk from busy Umeda, have become a haven for small cafes (89 Cafe, where you can also rent a kimono), retro clothing stores (Green Pepe), craft shops (Guignol and Jam Pot) and tiny galleries like eclectic Irorimura. It’s so hip, it even has a muesli bar: Granda Familio. Just don’t get there before noon, as many of the shops will still be closed.

The festival: Toka Ebisu

Osaka doesn’t do downtime and the standout festival early in the year is Toka Ebisu (9-11 January), which includes a parade of geisha and local celebrities on the middle day. Or on 14 January, watch out for the Doya Doya (easy to spot as many young men will be running around in loincloths). And for a different event entirely, try the Nipponbashi Street Festa in mid-March – Japan’s largest cosplay event.

The museum: The Cup Noodle Museum

This ode to the instant noodle offers one of the more unusual hands-on experiences you’ll find in Japan. For ¥400 (HK$30) you can create your own instant noodles, including package design, from a potential 5,460 flavour combinations. The Cup Noodles Museum’s Instant Ramen tunnel is also one of Osaka’s most Instagramable sites.

The market: Shitenno-ji

Founded in 593 AD, Osaka’s Shitenno-ji temple is about as venerable as they get in Japan, but that doesn’t mean a visit has to be hushed and dull. On the 21st of each month, the temple’s flea market is ideal for picking up antiques, used kimono, local crafts and all sorts of bric-a-brac.