‘For 300 years we’ve been making castella cake and marubouro, and in 1927 we started combining the two to make chidori manju,’ said Harada Mikinori, owner of Chidoriyahonke, which first created the hybrid bun. ‘Through today’s desserts, we can see how the Sugar Road accelerated the exchange between Western and Japanese cultures.’

At the end of the Sugar Road, at coastal town Kita-Kyushu City, the scenery seems to switch from the Edo period to modern day. Back in the day, goods were moved through the narrow Kanmon Straight to Honshu, Japan’s largest island. Here, Irie Confectioner is working hard to revive Portuguese konpeito, the colourful candy that comes in small, bumpy spheres. Much beloved by the shogun Oda Nobunaga, konpeito has lost popularity over the years. ‘There are fewer than 10 shops making konpeito in Japan, and we’re working to renew this item in its taste and in its packaging,’ says Irie Masahiko, the company’s owner.

Tokiwa Bridge was the journey’s final stop, and this is also where the Sugar Road ends. But it marks the beginning for the rest of Japan’s sweet obsession.

On the sugar road

JR Kyushu Sweet Train Aru Ressha

Passengers on this antique train enjoy bento boxes and various desserts created by famed chef Yoshihiro Narisawa. There are two routes, one of them going from Nagasaki to Sasebo, passing by scenic Omura Bay.

Glover Garden

This garden is located in the 19th-century area of Nagasaki that was formerly set aside for overseas residents and surrounded by many other mansions and facilities built by British traders. The Former Glover House is Japan’s oldest Western-style wooden building, completed in 1873.

Chou Chou Farm

Perched on the edge of Omura Bay, this farm holds dessert and pastry workshops that use freshly picked fruits as ingredients. Fruit-picking activities are also on offer.

Ureshino Onsen

Ureshino was a service area along the Sugar Road during the Edo period. It’s home to one of Japan’s top three onsens known for beautifying effects. Speciality foods include tofu cooked in hot springs and Ureshino tea.

Saga Balloon Museum

Saga plays host to the annual Hot Air Balloon World Championship in November. The museum boasts a remarkable archive and interesting information about hot air balloons. Visitors can also try Japan’s only hot air balloon simulation machine.

Hero image: Illustrations: Cecil Tang; Photography: Prairie Stuart-Wolff