She often pauses to greet those passing by. Among the familiar cast of regulars and neighbours on Kamiyama’s main street, Tsukamoto has noticed an increasing number of extras: slightly disorientated young tourists and day-trippers.

Until recently, most people visiting Shibuya’s throbbing shopping and nightlife area didn’t venture into Kamiyama. Even now, despite an established art-house cinema, and a mix of cafes, bars, restaurants and shops, to the uninitiated it’s not always apparent what or where the attractions are. Often they are tucked behind ageing shopfronts or around residential street corners. And much like Tokyo in general, they are often hard to spot unless you’re introduced to them. A few doors down from Lady Bugs lies one such splendid curio: a costume shop that has been in business for over 40 years and specialises in monsters. Artist Takashi Murakami has commissioned bespoke suits featuring his signature otaku flowers here to resemble his manic, shiny artwork.