With its fascinating mix of Malaysian, Chinese, Peranakan and Indian influences throughout its art, culture, architecture and food, the state of Penang is a true microcosm of Malaysia. While Penang is typically known for its street food, in the capital of George Town, fine dining restaurants have been quietly making their mark in the last few years, with chefs infusing local flavours and traditions into international cuisines.
Scroll down for our guide on where to eat in George Town.
Credit: Kebaya Dining Room
Credit: Kebaya Dining Room
Located inside the iconic Seven Terraces hotel – itself a model for heritage preservation in Penang – this stylish restaurant serves up “tradition with a modern twist” with its two- and three-course set menus. Both the decor and menu at Kebaya Dining Room showcase the soul of Penang’s Peranakan culture, which is the result of centuries of commingling of Malaysian and Chinese heritage. Think classic Straits dishes prepared with contemporary culinary techniques, such as confit beef with a side of buah keluak jam and prawn pai tee, served in a dining room adorned with cheery mosaic tiles, cherry-toned velvet curtains and sparkling crystal chandeliers.
Credit: Teksen
Credit: Teksen
Credit: Teksen
This no-frills eatery, located in an old Penang shophouse, has been wowing locals and tourists alike since 1965. Teksen serves traditional fare like curry tumis with stingray, crispy roasted pork and stir-fried water spinach with belacan. This family-run restaurant began life as a nondescript porridge stall and is particularly popular with large groups – be prepared to wait for a table as it’s usually packed in the evenings.
Credit: Communal Table by Gen
Credit: Communal Table by Gen
True to its name, this casual dining venue seats a maximum of 24 guests at a long table that overlooks an open kitchen. The cuisine at Communal Table by Gen is modern Malaysian, with a sprinkling of Peranakan flavours and a focus on local, seasonal ingredients, Dishes not to be missed include the skipjack tuna with ginger flower sorbet as well as the bidor duck done two ways: aged and confit. The beverage menu is extensive, ranging from French wines to Sarawakian tuak (fermented rice wine) and Japanese sake.
Credit: The Blue Mansion
Credit: The Blue Mansion
Located on the first floor of the 19th century Georgetown landmark known as Cheong Fatt Tze or The Blue Mansion, Indigo serves an eclectic international menu featuring Australian wagyu beef and Hokkaido scallops among other fine ingredients. The set menu at lunchtime contains three courses, while the dinner menu consists of five courses with a wine pairing option and a separate vegetarian tasting menu. It’s worth arriving early to explore this fabulous building which, after restoration, is now a boutique hotel.
Credit: Sood by Chef Ton
Credit: Sood by Chef Ton
Credit: Sood by Chef Ton
This modern Thai restaurant from star chef Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajohn just opened in January, but it’s already making waves in Penang. Sood by Chef Ton is housed in a 150-year-old heritage building, with a menu designed around small bites and shared plates that offer an exceptionally fun dining experience. The standout dishes are khao gee larb goong (Thai rice tacos with grilled prawn larb), mee gaeng kua poo (yellow curry noodles with crab) and khai jeaw poo (crab omelette with sriracha sauce).
Penang’s Indian-Tamil culture is visible everywhere, from its temples and street markets, and in particular, its numerous banana leaf restaurants, named after the sumptuous repast of rice with an assortment of robust curries served on a banana leaf. At Passions of Kerala , the rice comes with rasam soup and three vegetable dishes: dhal (lentils), acar (pickles) and appalam (papadum). On top of this, you can also order sides like prawn sambal, chicken masala or mutton varuval – but be sure to save space for a cooling mango lassi at the end.
Although dining in Penang tends to be meat-heavy, vegetarians and vegans need not miss out on sampling meatless versions of local dishes like nasi lemak and asam laksa. Pinxin Vegan was started by Penang entrepreneur Jenn Woei Loh after he turned vegan about a decade ago, and the restaurant prides itself on its healthy, cruelty-free, plant-based food. In the last few years, the brand has also started to sell its own range of ready-to-eat products and spice mixes at its shop and through its website.
Some of the best Malaysian food is found on George Town’s streets, and there’s none better than the Kimberley pasar malam (night market) at Jalan Sungai Ujong. Follow the locals as they line up for their fill of the famous duck kway chap – a Teochew Chinese dish featuring flat rice noodles (kway) in a dark soy broth (chap) along with assorted cuts of pork. Then there are chicken feet, char kway teow (stir-fried noodles), si koh soup and more. Wash it all down with a hot teh tarik (tea) at one of the small coffee shops on the lane (as a bonus, you can sit down with your street food here if you order a drink).
Address: 1 Jalan Sungai Ujong, George Town
Video credit: Thai Liang Lim/Getty Images