The rebirth of Kangaroo Island

Standing on the edge of a limestone cliff, we look out over the vast expanse of the Southern Ocean. Beyond the horizon there’s only Antarctica, some 2,600km southwards. As waves wash over rocks below, we try to spy humpback whales on their migratory path. In this wild, windswept scene, we feel a profound, humbling sense of our place in the world.

We’re on Kangaroo Island – or KI, as locals affectionately call it. It’s a place of duality: calming and captivating on one side, sublime in its untamed grandeur on the other. It’s Australia’s third-largest island, 140km long and 50km wide, whose population of about 5,000 people live among barely touched wilderness, with more than one-third of the island protected as either conservation sanctuary or national park.

Seeing flowering shrubs in bloom and towering eucalyptus trees sheltering sleepy koalas, it’s hard to fathom that five years ago, nearly half the island was ablaze – scorched by unprecedented bushfires that devastated the wildlife, as well as homes and businesses. Today, while skeletal trees bear the scars of those fires, the land tells a different story – one of astonishing recovery.

Out of the ashes

At the heart of KI’s transformation is Southern Ocean Lodge , an award-winning luxury hotel on the island’s southernmost cliffs. The fires didn’t spare the lodge, so owners James and Hayley Baillie committed themselves to rebuilding it – collaborating with local businesses and artists to help the community recover.

Finally, after a three-year restoration, the lodge reopened in December 2023. “It was weird coming back,” assistant manager Natalie Lang tells us as we walk through the property. “Seeing the ashes of the fire, then opening the doors for the first time again, was just jaw-dropping.”

Throughout the lodge, a dialogue between art and space draws inspiration from its natural surroundings, seen in the striking installation of reclaimed burnt metal, ceramics and glass in the Southern Spa by local artist Janine Mackintosh. But the true emblem of its enduring spirit is Sunshine – a kangaroo sculpture by the late Indiana James that stands by the window of The Great Room. Crafted from salvaged metal parts found around the island, this artwork was the only object from the original lodge to survive.

This same sense of locality also extends to produce and products sourced from across the island – as well as from other parts of South Australia – that spotlight the land’s bounty. Lang tells us, “So much of what’s made or grown on the island is used here in different ways – whether it’s the interiors or the food, or even the souvenirs in our boutique. So many people from the island have amazing talents.”

Gateway to paradise

Situated on the island’s southwest coast, the Southern Ocean Lodge’s remoteness is part of its appeal: it’s within a 45-minute drive from various sanctuaries and wildlife, including Flinder Chase National Park , Seal Bay Conservation Park , the Remarkable Rocks and Admirals Arch.

Approximately 200,000 people visit the island each year, with numbers peaking in the summer – which starts rolling in early December in this part of the world. Not that you’d need to worry about crowds when staying at the lodge: “We usually start our tours in the morning, so by the time the areas become busy with tour groups, we’re already on our way out. This gives our guests more time to relax at the lodge or enjoy other activities in the afternoon, such as taking a stroll along the coastal limestone clifftop trails overlooking Hanson Bay,” says Lang.

Guests encounter wildlife unique to the island, including the endangered Kangaroo Island dunnart, a small, grey marsupial; the western grey kangaroo; Rosenberg’s goanna; and Cape Barren goose. These species have evolved in isolation ever since the island drifted from the mainland during the last Ice Age. Beyond the fauna, landmarks echo maritime legend and rare vegetation signals resilience. Having adapted to the island’s harsh climate, the flora has learned not only to survive but flourish amid fire season. Remarkably, some plants sprouted just months after the devastation.

Sustainable future

Sustainability and environmental conservation are central to the lodge’s rebirth, with the AU$55 million (HK$260 million) rebuild involving advanced upgrades to fire safety designs, including inflammable exterior materials, expanded water storage and a remotely activated sprinkler system. As KI-born architect Max Pritchard, who designed both iterations, explains: “We wanted to preserve the native vegetation around the lodge and were careful to minimise damage during the construction. We then propagated 40,000 coastal plants to act as natural fire barriers. Much of the stone was quarried onsite, then the land revegetated to restore what was lost.”

Meanwhile, each of the lodge’s 25 suites faces the clear, turquoise waters, while there’s also a chance of spotting a wallaby or two just a few metres away. In place of the former main building and reception is the Baillie Pavilion , a sprawling suite adorned with artwork by Aboriginal artists and featuring two living areas as well as two heated plunge pools.

Beyond timeless luxury, the lodge is steeped in heritage, artistry, community and storytelling. Every member of the team, guide and guest are bound by a shared admiration for nature and history, helping to shape the experience in important ways. As we take it all in, it’s impossible not to admire the dedication of the islanders in regenerating their natural surroundings, and the enduring spirit of the land that holds its people close.