Just three hours from London by train or car, the Brecon Beacons (now officially known by its Welsh name Bannau Brycheiniog) is characterised by the dramatic windswept peaks and valleys of the Black Mountains to the south-west, contrasting with undulating moors and picturesque farmland, as well as evocative lakes and fairytale forests.

I already had plans to visit family in Wales over the summer, so I began looking at packages offered by Unicorn Trails, a British company specialising in equestrian holidays. A three-night riding holiday in the Brecon Beacons sounded like the ideal opportunity for me to regain my confidence as a rider and make a new discovery or two at the same time.

My host for the long weekend was Myfanwy Mitchell of Ellesmere Riding Centre. The daughter of Welsh cattle farmers, Mitchell is an indefatigable 74-year-old who has been leading mounted tours of the Brecon Beacons since 1966, catering to riders of all levels. She rode out with me on all three days, six hours per day.

Mitchell’s love for her horses and her home were immediately apparent. “I just want people to see the real Wales – the Wales I grew up in,” she told me over a hearty pub dinner on my first night in Brecon.

Ellesmere comprises little more than open fields and a yard, plus a prefab structure that serves as an admin office and a sheltered area for tack and farm equipment. But the horses are relaxed and well cared-for, with the freedom to roam and graze in lush paddocks between rides. They are personally selected by Mitchell for their even temperaments and surefootedness, and know the trails and mountains as well as she does.

Mitchell matched me with Monty, a spunky 13-year-old Welsh cob-apaloosa cross who loves to race across the Beacons as much as his riders do. Ears pricked forward, he was eager for every opportunity to canter through shoulder-high bracken, leap over rivulets created by the persistent rain, or gallop uphill across the moor, hooves springing over the soft, green turf.

I wondered whether Monty was a little too outgoing for me. I wasn’t used to a horse that didn’t need regular chivvying along, and I briefly wondered whether I should swap onto a slower mount. But I’m glad I stuck with Monty. The learning curve may have been steep, but I learned to love an entirely different kind of riding.

Over the course of three days, Monty and I traversed more than 60km of forest, farm and moorland. On horseback, I was able to peek over tall hedgerows, snatching glimpses of pretty stone cottages, and even got up close with the local fauna, including deer, rabbits and wild Welsh ponies.

Everywhere I went, I was welcomed with easy familiarity. I met my hosts family members, rode in their cars and mucked in with grooming and tacking up. They told me all about their lives in Brecon, and I shared with them all about my life in Hong Kong. It’s that kind of genuine connection that truly stays with you.

And it’s amazing what 18 hours on horseback will do. I went from clutching my reins and following nervously behind my instructor on the first day, to taking the lead and flying up dirt tracks by the third, throwing up clods of mud behind me.

On our final journey home, under vast, open skies that alternated rain and brilliant sunshine, we were rewarded with a spectacular rainbow. I sat deeper, rode faster and felt like nothing could throw me off my stride. Above all, I learned to trust my horse. To relax, stop worrying – and enjoy the ride.

Inspired? Discover five other active holidays to book now here.