Once derided by other Canadians as nice but uninspiring, Toronto has come into its own in recent years. The city has boomed in population and gained a cool factor as local talents made their names on the biggest stages, from musical acts like Drake and The Weeknd to actors Keanu Reeves and Simu Liu.
Torontonians will tell you that their city evokes New York, with its deeply multicultural ethic, thriving dining scene and role as a cosmopolitan financial hub. But on the ground, comparisons to Chicago may be more apt, with a never-ending flow of friendly locals and an approachable mix of low-key neighbourhoods.
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Toronto sits on the northern shore of Lake Ontario, with its downtown core stretching from St Lawrence Market in the south to Queen’s Park in the north. Bay Street – Canada’s answer to Wall Street – runs centrally up into Yorkville, a tiny shopping enclave, and back down to the Harbourfront area and the iconic CN Tower. Nathan Phillips Square, with its adjacency to City Hall and Instagrammable “Toronto” sign lit up in caps, is often seen as the centre point of the city.
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Trendier areas push west, including arty Kensington Market, the buzzy streets of Little Italy and Trinity Bellwoods Park, a hip oasis especially popular with yuppies rolling off their nine-to-fives. Much of the city’s dining scene revolves around the King West and Queen West areas; the venues are mostly casual, but reservations are always recommended.
For the best of Canadian cuisine, try Canoe . Offering towering views of the city from the 54th floor of the TD Bank Tower, the restaurant serves a European-inspired menu remixed with ingredients from across the country, with seven-course tasting menus to boot. Prime Seafood Palace pairs celebrity chef Matty Matheson’s endearingly frazzled ethos with clean interior lines and local products, including local Ontario beef and seafood from Eastern Canada’s Maritime provinces.
Jacobs & Co carries the mantle of being the city’s premier steakhouse, backed by endless celebrity appearances. Alo is all about high-end French-Asian fusion in a lively atmosphere with impeccable plating; its success has spawned similarly themed but more relaxed sister venues Alobar and Aloette.
To impress over a drink, Louix Louis mixes stiff drinks with a glitzy, gilded bar atop the St. Regis Hotel, while Bar Raval tops annual “best of the best” lists with Spanish cocktails and tapas in a Gaudí-inspired setting.
Most of the city’s business hotels centre around the downtown core. Four Seasons Hotel Toronto sits at the top of Bay Street in Yorkville and is the crown jewel of the luxe Canadian hospitality brand, blending natural elements and clean Scandinavian lines across airy rooms and a high-ceilinged lobby. Park Hyatt Toronto offers intimate luxury and an air of sophistication – the perfect place to kick back and relax after a day of shopping in Yorkville.
If your priority is getting in and out of town, the Fairmont Royal York – another showcase property from a Canadian chain – offers heritage grandeur across from Union Station and quick shuttles to Billy Bishop, Toronto’s downtown airport. 1 Hotel , a boho-chic establishment filled with plush couches and peaceful greenery, is an eco-conscious option in the King West area.
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Canadians love their small talk, and sport is an easy topic – especially in Toronto. The Maple Leafs are the city’s pride and joy, and the Toronto Raptors’ 2019 NBA championship still carries conversational currency. Advanced linguists will note that the first “O” and the second “T” in Toronto are dropped by locals; pronounce it “Tronno” if you want to truly blend in.
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Upscale shopping can be found in Yorkville, Toronto’s counter to Fifth Avenue, while St Lawrence Market houses a farmer’s market alongside souvenirs and locally famous peameal bacon sandwiches. The Distillery District , a former whisky distillery redeveloped into an entertainment district, offers trendy dining and shopping options among quaint cobblestone streets and art galleries.
To escape the urban landscape, visit High Park, a massive green space in the west of the city complete with a free zoo, a tennis club and winter skating, or head to the Toronto Islands , dotted with long winding bike paths and easily accessible by ferry.
Generally speaking, Canadians are relatively progressive in their views. The offering of pronouns in email signatures is common, and official ceremonies are often preceded by minutes-long acknowledgements noting the original Indigenous peoples of the land.
Business dinners tend to be low-key. Flashy fine dining is often eschewed for more laid-back options, and beer is common – heavy drinking less so. Bills are usually split between all parties for casual gatherings, which can easily be facilitated by servers. Tipping is expected; a minimum of 15 per cent is the norm.
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Hudson’s Bay Company offers distinctive point blankets, historically traded with Indigenous peoples for beaver pelts as part of the fur trade. Sports fans may appreciate Toronto Maple Leafs gear, hockey’s equivalent of a New York Yankees hat.
For something more contemporary, Peace Collective offers a plethora of Toronto-themed merch, while Ovo (Drake’s designer brand) occasionally offers pieces exclusive to shops in the city. Those checking luggage may consider Ontario’s famous icewine, surprisingly cheap bottles of maple syrup or Sortilège , a heritage maple whisky from Quebec.
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