The hottest places to eat, drink, stay and play in Fitzroy, Melbourne

Fitzroy might just be a perfect distillation of Melbourne and its diverse communities, coffee culture, dining scene, retail strips and vibrant nightlife. The city’s oldest suburb, once home to the working class, has long been gentrified, but public housing towers, heritage pubs and independent galleries and artist studios still stand against a proliferation of wine bars, buzzy restaurants, boutique fashion brands and escalating property prices.

Flanked by the eclectic shopping and dining strips of Gertrude, Brunswick, Smith and Johnston streets, the area (and its neighbouring suburb Collingwood) is primed for a cultural weekender. Here’s a curated guide to the Fitzroy area, and how to experience it like a local. 

Eat

Start with brunch at Napier Quarter , an all-day Parisian-style espresso and wine bar with a signature anchovy toast Nigella Lawson once called “a slice of heaven” . Served with slices of boiled egg atop a slather of mustardy mayo, a dollop of salsa verde and a squeeze of lemon, it’s leagues above the ubiquitous snack you’ll find on so many Melbourne menus. If you’re on the go, grab a coffee and a wood-fired bagel from Mile End Bagels .  

Lunchtime? Sample some of the best sandwiches in Melbourne at places like Falco Bakery (the chicken and egg salad sandwiches are must-tries), cafe-deli Morning Market and Italian-inspired Stefanino Panino . Or, experience a bit of North and Central American influence at Cali-style diner JollyGood (serving burgers, Bloody Mary’s and bottomless filter coffee) and slick taqueria Frankie’s Tortas and Tacos , which regularly has lines out the door. 

Come dinner time (or for a late afternoon snack) check out some of the best wine bars in the city, like Bar Liberty , which has fast become a Fitzroy institution thanks to its superb wines, smart cocktails and, more recently, Polish-inspired small plates (think paszteciki, potato dumplings and cabbage rolls). You can also head over to Marion Wine Bar , a chic all-day destination for excellent wines and food to match. The menu is ever-evolving but you’ll want to start with their famous flat bread smothered with fromage blanc. 

For a more laid-back and home-style meal, try the newly opened Toddy Shop , a contemporary south Indian-style diner serving comforting Kerala cuisine, cold beers and creative cocktails – don't miss its namesake drink, a milky-white brew made from the fermented sap of toddy palms. 

Drink

Pop into the buzzy Hope Street Radio inside the Collingwood Arts Precinct, next to Stefanino Panino, for an excellent selection of wine, a bowl of pasta and music by local DJs. If it’s a classic Melbourne pub you’re after, hit the Marquis of Lorne or the Builders Arms Hotel for a local craft beer and some of the best grub in a city already brimming with top-notch gastropubs. 

Some of Melbourne’s coolest cocktail bars also call Fitzroy home, including the prestigious Black Pearl , which has scooped up several international awards for its complex cocktails and moody late-night ambience; The Everleigh , a glamourous portal to a bygone era complete with old-world chesterfields, elk heads and bartenders in waistcoats; and Above Board , an intimate cocktail bar hidden down a graffitied laneway. If you’re in the mood for something a bit more casual, stroll over to dive bar The Shady Lady for frozen Margaritas and shots.

Shop

Update your wardrobe at Melbourne-born boutiques like Alpha60 , Bul , Handsom and Kloke or go thrifting at one of the many vintage stores situated along the colourful Brunswick Street. Pick up a complex, layered fragrance at boutique perfumery Flâner , or shop for the home at one of the area’s fancy furniture and homewares spots, like Mud Australia or Cibi , a Japanese lifestyle concept store and cafe once visited by Harry Styles. Music heads can go crate-digging along trendy Smith and Gertrude streets at record stores Northside Records , Wah Wah , The Searchers and Plug Seven . 

Do 

In keeping with the suburb’s bohemian history, peruse the Rose Street Artists’ Market on a weekend for the wares of some of Melbourne’s best emerging artists, designers and makers, from art and photography to jewellery and curios. Wander through the area’s independent art galleries, like Brunswick Street Gallery , Sutton Gallery and Centre For Contemporary Photography before heading through the narrow leafy backstreets for a walking tour of the Fitzroy’s vibrant street art, then sprawl out in the lush Edinburgh Gardens – a short tram ride away in Fitzroy North – and people-watch while you picnic (after picking up provisions from nearby supermarket Piedimonte’s or beloved bakery Loafer Bread ). End the night catching a set of live music at the longstanding Workers Club .  

Stay

Book into The Standard X , a new boutique hotel and offshoot of the international luxe chain (not to be confused with old-school pub The Standard Hotel – worth a visit for a pint and a bite – nearby). Opening mid-2024, it’ll have an all-day Thai diner and a rooftop bar with sweeping city views.