Rice wine renaissance

The last few years have seen younger drinkers turn to sool – traditional Korean alcohol – partly as a result of being unable to access Western spirits, such as gin and whisky, during the pandemic. Having been in the industry and studied sool for more than a decade, The Sool Company founder Julia Mellor is excited to see new bars and producers enter the fray.

“When I started, I knew everybody on the makgeolli scene,” says Mellor, who’s Australian. “Now it’s near-impossible to keep up with every new producer.

“Makgeolli has changed in focus from what was a more traditional field and an older generation to young people putting their own brand on it, their own perspective, infusions and styles.”

Now, when visiting Seoul, you can build an entire itinerary around Korean alcohol: try an introductory tasting flight at Oul, join one of The Sool Company’s makgeolli tastings, experience a sool-pairing menu at restaurants like Dokdo 16 Celsius, and explore the brewpubs, such as Woori Yeahsool, where sool is brewed onsite and served in hip spaces.

Celebrities have also got involved, with singer Seong Si-kyung’s makgeolli selling out online within three minutes of launch and BTS star Jin sharing how he makes his own on YouTube. Jipyeong Brewery, one of the country’s longest-standing makgeolli producers, witnessed a 15 per cent surge in sales last year.