As soon as we set eyes on Xixi Ancient Village, we’re swept up in its historical charm. Entering through its south gate, adorned with red fai chun banners, we see Ming and Qing dynasty buildings rising majestically beside the peaceful ornamental lake. It’s hard to believe this picture-perfect water town sits within Liaobu, a modern district of Dongguan in central Guangdong Province.
Credit: Hym Chu
Credit: Hym Chu
Credit: Hym Chu
Founded in 1489 during the Ming dynasty, Xixi Ancient Village has endured for more than 500 years. In 2018, the village embarked on a large-scale revitalisation project, guided by the principle of restoring old structures to their former glory while harmoniously building new additions. More than 100 ancient residences, ancestral halls and alleyways were restored, while creative boutiques and cafés brought fresh energy. Once overlooked, Xixi is now one of Liaobu’s most popular attractions.
Credit: Hym Chu
Where to begin
Wandering through the village feels like strolling through an open-air museum. Across its cross-hatched layout, quiet side alleys contrast with broader, bustling main streets, delivering delightful surprises around every corner. Most of the old houses share the same architectural style: built from red sandstone and grey brick, with exquisite stone carvings adorning the jin-style roofs – a shape that resembles the Chinese character “jin” (金; meaning precious metal).
We start at the ancestral hall of the influential Yin family, once the village’s overseers. It’s the largest building of its kind in the village, boasting a spacious, two-courtyard layout. Though time has worn its beams and the bricks have gradually eroded, exhibitions on architecture and folk craft help tell the story of the family and the village.
Village highlights
Xixi was once a prominent trading hub for agarwood, and its incense culture lives on. At Guanxiangyuan Agarwood (shop 401, Fourth Lane), browse fragrant products then head to the Chinese Herbal Sachet shop (shop 1006A, Tenth Lane) to create your own blend of herbs and spices. Shops such as Luxi Gifts (shop 906, Ninth Lane) and Xixi Impression (shop 501A, Fifth Lane) offer handicrafts rooted in folk tradition. Hanfu rental shops invite visitors to dress in traditional Chinese garments and immerse themselves in the village’s atmosphere.
As night falls, look for a lantern-lit lane for a perfect photo, then take a boat ride across the lake to admire the twinkling shoreline.
Credit: Hym Chu
Credit: Hym Chu
Credit: Hym Chu
Culinary delights
Near the entrance, Yu Lai Yu Shun serves lychee wood-fired roast goose – aromatic and juicy, with smoky wood flavours that linger pleasingly. Yuezui Xixi (Shop 1001, Tenth Lane) offers Cantonese classics and nightly folk performances, with signature dishes including drunken ribs, Shilong beancurd chicken and Liaobu soybean sauce pork.
For a quieter moment, Post Tea House (shop 201, Second Lane) is set in a converted ancestral hall with a serene courtyard. Sitting here with a cup of tea is wonderfully restorative. Alternatively, Mori Coffee (shop 525, Fifth Lane) uses globally sourced beans and a hand-drip method to create rich, aromatic brews. The café’s interiors feature contemporary artwork that complements the historic setting.
After dark, head to the floating restaurant Yuezui Lakeside to enjoy Cantonese-style sweet treats while watching lights dance on the water, or check out the Lakeside Market for a lively atmosphere and endless food stalls.
Credit: Hym Chu
Credit: Hym Chu
Credit: Hym Chu
Extending your journey
Liaobu is famously known as the “incense market” of the Chinese Mainland. Visit Yaxiang Street for incense products or learn more at the Agarwood Culture Museum on Xiangfu Road. Designed by He Jingtang, architect of the China Pavilion at the Shanghai Expo, the museum features three floors of exhibits and rare artefacts, including a cast-iron incense burner from the Qianlong era (1735-96).
Liaobu is also known for its traditional soybean paste. At Youyi Sauce Garden, watch the fermentation process, then visit Coffee@Sauce in the same complex to try soy sauce-infused desserts and drinks – a modern twist on local flavours.
Where to stay
The Hyatt Regency Dongguan , a 30-minute drive from Xixi, overlooks the beautiful Songshan Lake and is close to shopping and lifestyle destination Vanke Living Plaza. The Xixi hotel’s elegant rooms are spacious and comfortable, while its seven restaurants each offer something different, from Cantonese classics to refined Western cuisine, so you can sample global flavours without stepping outside.
Practical tips
Xixi shifts from quiet to lively as the day progresses. Arrive in the late afternoon to enjoy peaceful alleyways, then stay for the evening lights. The village is organised into 10 lanes – explore one at a time and watch for lane markers to avoid getting lost.
Getting there
Take the high-speed rail from Hong Kong West Kowloon Station to Dongguan Station (about one hour), then a 30-minute taxi ride to Xixi Ancient Village.