Where to go autumn leaf hunting in Hokkaido

Hokkaido, Japan’s second-largest island, is a perennial favourite holiday destination among Hongkongers. Skiers can’t get enough of Niseko’s fresh powder in the winter months, while spring and summer bring blooming flower fields. But have you ever considered visiting Hokkaido in the autumn? Before the snow sets in, you can savour brisk mornings and clear-blue skies, while the sudden drop in temperature causes entire parks full of trees to display stunning red, orange and golden-hued leaves before they finally fall.  

Between October and November, Japanese families, friends and couples alike partake in autumn leaf-hunting, or momijigari, the cool weather counterpart of the more famous cherry blossom season that’s held in spring. Japanese culture has a deep appreciation for impermanence, and this drives people out to parks and forests all over the country to admire the ephemeral beauty of the changing colours each year. As the northernmost prefecture in Japan, Hokkaido is the first part of the country to experience this phenomenon. 

Want to give momijigari a go? Here are a few places in Hokkaido where you can fully immerse yourself in the changing seasons. And don’t forget to check the website of the Japan Meteorological Corporation to find out when you can see the best autumn colours.  

Shiretoko National Park

Located on Hokkaido’s northern tip, Shiretoko National Park is a wild and remote region of Japan. Home to the country’s largest population of brown bears, it’s a naturalist’s dream, with abundant birds and marine life, from white-tailed eagles to seals and even orcas. During momijigari season, hikers will find the area ablaze with red and gold leaves as far as the eye can see. It’s far from the calm experience you’d get from frequenting one of Sapporo’s many city parks, but the views are worth the extra effort.  

Miharashi Park

This manicured Japanese-style garden in Hakodate, about 3.5 hours from Sapporo by train, looks like something out of a Studio Ghibli film. Built in the 1890s by a wealthy kimono merchant, the park was bought by the city of Hakodate and opened to the public in the 1950s. It is now one of Japan’s top spots for momijigari, with more than 150 species of trees showing off their autumn colours. You’ll also find ponds, waterfalls, a greenhouse and buildings with traditional thatched roofs, making Miharashi Park a romantic spot to spend a blissful afternoon.  

Shikotsu-Toya National Park

Conveniently located near Sapporo, Shikotsu Toya National Park is home to natural hot springs, making it the perfect spot if you want to take in some onsen alongside your leaf-hunting. Most visitors frequent the Jozankei Onsen, from which it’s easy to make a side trip to the wonderfully clear waters of Lake Shikotsu. Up for a challenge? The park is also home to Mount Yotei, Hokkaido’s answer to Mount Fuji, which you can summit for spectacular views of the park and its dreamy autumn colours from high above the treeline.  

Other momijigari hotspots

Hokkaido University: The university’s main boulevard is lined with enormous ginkgo trees, drawing the admiration of students and faculty members alike.  

Maruyama Park: This Sapporo park was modelled after another of the same name in Kyoto. Don’t miss the Hokkaido Shrine, which offers an excellent backdrop for photo-taking during momijigari season.   

Nakajima Park: Located in downtown Sapporo, this park has lakes, streams and facilities galore, making it a convenient but no-less picturesque spot for the casual leaf-hunter.  

Shirogane Blue Pond: Biei may be famed for its rolling hills and vast fields of flowers in the summertime, but in autumn, people flock to see the signature surreal-looking pond. Shirogane gets its vibrant blue hue from aluminium deposits via a nearby waterfall, making for a sharp contrast between the blue water and the changing leaves during the autumn months. 

Where to stay

Ana Crowne Plaza Sapporo

Just a minute’s walk from Sapporo subway station, this hotel is the perfect jumping-off point for some quality leaf-hunting. Unusually, it also has numerous parking spaces, making it a great place to start and finish a momijigari road trip.  

Sapporo Grand Hotel

Sapporo’s first western-style hotel, the Sapporo Grand has been open since 1934, and has an enviable location in the heart of the city. It’s near to both Maruyama Park and Hokkaido University, making it an excellent base for urban leaf-hunting.