A longtail boat was rocketing me down Chao Phraya, the river running through Bangkok. ‘There are still families living along the river, and we’ve been here for generations,’ the captain explains to me. ‘The new projects along the river are very exciting as that will provide us with more income.’ At least that’s what I think he said, as I was busy clinging on for dear life, trying my best not to fall into what is known as the artery of Thailand, while deaf from the motor booming next to me.
Speedy isn’t exactly the reputation of Bangkok’s traffic. A supposedly 45-minute taxi ride from Suvarnabhumi Airport to my hotel in central Bangkok took me two hours because that’s just the way it is. So knowing I was avoiding the roads when travelling on Bangkok’s main river made me feel like I had some kind of upper hand, not to mention the cool breeze, the beautiful scenery and just the fact there wouldn’t be any road rage on my part.
Credit: Cedric Arnold
‘A lot of Bangkok sites are along the river, and piers are connected to the MRT (metro system), making this an amazing way to travel in the capital,’ says Piriya Vachajitpan, managing director of Chao Phraya Tourist Boat . ‘We have one boat with the blue flag just for tourists that hits your main attractions, and three other express boats for locals. About 20,000 locals use these boats every day, as they’re quick, fast and cheap. From one end to the other it’s a leisurely 45 minutes, whereas by car it’ll take you two hours, without traffic.’
For hundreds of years, the river has been the lifeblood of the capital city, as well as its commercial centre, with embassies dotted along the riverbank. However, at the turn of the 20th century, the British embassy decided to move away from the river (and set up camp on Wireless Road), and soon other embassies followed suit, with only the Portuguese and the French remaining. This effectively moved the business district away to the jam-packed central Bangkok we know today. As a result, beautiful buildings were either left to crumble or repurposed. Much of the river’s charm and heritage was lost.
Credit: Cedric Arnold
Credit: Cedric Arnold
Credit: Cedric Arnold
Enter the river renaissance. It all started about five years ago with the opening of Asiatique , a retail space made up of warehouses and a giant Ferris wheel, which turned the riverbank into a destination for tourists and shoppers. Les Huysmans, general manager of Bangkok Walking Adventures, says his company scrapped a riverbank walking tour a few years back due to lack of interest. ‘We decided to revive it in 2017 and it has been increasingly popular,’ he says. ‘We show them the heritage and interesting stories of the area, which isn’t hard, as the river and its canals have a lot of historical value.’
As the hype began to build, exciting projects followed. The Jam Factory , a series of old factory buildings converted into a lifestyle space, provides a trendy haven away from the hustle and bustle of the capital. It helps that it’s also photogenic, attracting the social media crowd. And now, across the bank, Warehouse 30 , built by the same people behind The Jam Factory, has officially opened its doors. The ultra-cool space comprises seven warehouses, all dating to just after the Second World War. The massive complex houses a day spa, restaurants and cafes, a marketplace, a yoga centre, a screening venue with a focus on documentaries and much more.
Credit: Cedric Arnold
Credit: Cedric Arnold
Credit: Cedric Arnold