Fujian tulou, the restoration of Chinese Hakka fortresses

Deep in the mountains of Fujian province, ancient earthen fortresses are scattered across the landscape. These communal strongholds, known as tulou, were built between the 12th to 20th centuries to shelter communities of Hakka people living in southern China.

Standing at the entrance of a tulou, it’s easy to picture scenes of life from centuries past: clans fleeing war and upheaval, migrating southwards to remote mountains where they raised walled compounds – part fortress, part close-knit village. Thanks to their solid rammed-earth walls and strong mortise-and-tenon joinery, these structures have weathered everything from natural disasters to conflict.

However, the fate of these historic settlements has always rested on the evolving lifestyles and needs of their inhabitants. From the mid-20th century, younger generations, seeking greater privacy and agency, began eschewing tulou life for the modern comforts and conveniences of the city. Without the constant daily upkeep, many tulou fell into disrepair, some even collapsing into ruin.

Restoration beyond the 46 Fujian tulou sites

In 2008, 46 Fujian tulou were inscribed onto the list of Unesco World Heritage sites, which brought an important lifeline in terms of visibility, protection and funding for their restoration. But other tulou still stood at risk, which gave architect Xu Tiantian a profound sense of loss. For Xu, a professor at the School of Architecture at Tsinghua University and the founder of Beijing-based DnA_Design and Architecture , these structures represent more than just traditional dwellings; they embody an egalitarian ethos born out of extraordinary, and challenging, times. “Everyone worked, lived and defended together. It was a remarkably modern social system,” Xu says. This enduring model of cross-generational living moved her deeply, and she set her sights on restoration.

A new lease of life

Since 2022, Xu has led DnA in a major tulou revitalisation project, selecting seven in Zhangzhou to breathe new life into. Among the tens of thousands of tulou in Fujian, Shengping Tulou is unique: it’s the only round tulou in the area built entirely of granite, and its resemblance to the Roman Colosseum is unmistakable.

Before DnA stepped in, barely a third of its original structure remained, with its outer walls nearly engulfed by vegetation. Today, the site presents an entirely renewed scene: the surviving structures have been adapted into exhibition spaces, hosting a permanent Dongxi Kiln exhibition, alongside occasional displays of traditional opera culture. Villagers gather here for daily leisure, while visitors are treated to a singular cultural experience.

However, not all tulou were deserted. In Nanjing County, Cuimei Tulou and Jinshi Tulou house residents to this day, though the lack of kitchens and toilets was previously a challenge. Makeshift sheds built to compensate inadvertently created fire hazards. Now, after a comprehensive makeover, the ground floor features expanded kitchens and stalls where residents sell food and souvenirs, while the three upper storeys – once derelict platforms stripped down to bare timber frames – were re-floored and converted into tea rooms, reading areas and other communal spaces, with plans for a puppet-theatre workshop.

Gathering momentum

In what Xi calls “architectural acupuncture”, this revitalisation wasn’t about freezing a building in time, but about making sensitive, small-scale interventions that respect each tulou’s character. “We work with existing spaces, giving each tulou a new function in keeping with its historical context and community’s needs,” she says.

At Cuimei Tulou, resident Jian Nazhen sits at her doorstep, sipping tea and chatting to neighbours while tending to her stall. While she once toiled in the fields, she now enjoys running a small business from her own front door, selling locally grown orchids and tea leaves from nearby tea plantations alongside creative souvenirs.

Inspired by these successes, more Hakka villages have begun to join the revival. Jian Jiaqiang, a resident of Kanxia Village, has spent recent years restoring tulou in neighbouring Pushan Village, converting three into guesthouses – one of which, Fuxing Tulou, is his childhood home. "The World Heritage tulou bring international renown", he says, “and we offer distinctive accommodation so visitors can experience the charm of tulou life for themselves.”

This is precisely the kind of sustainability Xu is striving for. “Rural villages possess a different kind of wealth: a rich cultural heritage while holding enormous practical and social value – and, of course, economic value too.

“We’re creating a new cycle of opportunity.”

Where to stay

For the most authentic tulou experience, stay at a local guesthouse. In Nanjing County, Jian Jiaqiang’s Yunshui Ruyi Travel and DL Tulou Culture B&B has been converted from the century-old square Hede Tulou, retaining its original rammed-earth walls and timber structure. A koi pond in the courtyard skywell adds understated elegance.

How to get to Fujian’s tulou

From Xiamen, take a taxi or hire a car. Hua’an County’s tulou are closest to the airport – a good starting point that can be reached within about two hours by road.

Weather in Fujian

Temperatures in the mountains can be considerably cooler than in the city, so bring a jacket. If you want to visit tulou across different counties in a single day, hiring a car is the most convenient and flexible option.

Seven revitalised tulou, one cultural journey

The DnA project spans seven tulou across three counties in Zhangzhou. Each revitalised tulou has its own distinct character, and visitors can also see World Heritage-listed tulou along the way.