Why Xi’an is China’s most underrated food city

Xi’an, the Chinese Mainland’s ancient former capital, is a known heritage hotspot, brimming with monuments like the Mausoleum of the First Qin Emperor, the Stele Forest Museum and Giant Wild Goose Pagoda. The food in Xi’an, however, is less well known.

When it comes to Chinese cuisine, several regions are celebrated for their distinctive culinary traditions, but Shaanxi – the province of Xi’an – often remains under the radar. Some may describe Xi’an as China’s “carb capital”, offering food that lacks the intricate techniques of Huaiyang cuisine and the exquisite ingredients of Cantonese dishes. 

And yet, Xi’an arguably serves the best of both worlds: unpretentious recipes from the north and culinary artistry from the south. Here are eight dishes that capture the surprising and delightful tastes of Xi’an – and where to try them.

1. Youpo mian

Noodle dishes number in the hundreds in Shaanxi, but king among them are youpo mian, or oil-splashed noodles. Broad, flat strips of flour dough – often described as “belt noodles” – are cooked in boiling water and seasoned with minced garlic, chopped green onions, chilli and hot oil – making for a spicy, chewy and utterly delicious bite. Try them at Fangling Youpo Mian in a quiet quarter of Xi’an.

179 Hongying Road, Beilin District, Xi’an

2. Hulu chicken 

Founded in 1929, and recognised as part of Shaanxi’s intangible cultural heritage, the historic Xi’an Fanzhuang restaurant offers a glimpse into Xi’an’s imperial glory. Its signature hulu or “gourd” chicken – named after the shape it resembles – is a dish with roots in the Tang dynasty, and has evolved to become a popular comfort food today. The chicken is boiled, steamed and deep-fried to achieve that wonderful combination of tender meat and crispy skin. 

298 East Avenue, Beilin District, Xi’an 

3. Roujiamo

After browsing the treasures of Shaanxi History Museum, take a short walk to Zhangji on Ziwu Road for roujiamo, China’s answer to the hamburger. This popular street eat has hungry diners lining up for a bite. It consists of a flatbread filled with braised pork belly, with the wheaten dough and fatty meat mixing beautifully on the palate. It’s traditionally paired with liangpi (cold noodles) and washed down with Ice Peak, an orange-flavoured soda that serves to offset the greasiness. 

227 Ziwu Road Zhangji, Yanta District, Xi’an 

4. Xi’an-style lamb soup

As much as residents of Xi’an love their crumbled flatbread and mutton soup – a dish that dates back to the Western Zhou dynasty, and which later kept Tang and Song soldiers warm in their camps – today, the Xi’an-style version made with lamb is more typically eaten. Expect a big bowl of clear broth with pieces of unskinned lamb, along with garlic scape, coriander and strips of freshly baked flatbread. Served at Huzi Shuipen Mutton, the spicy garlic lamb blood curd is said to help take the chill off the body. 

229 Cuihua Road, Yanta District, Xi’an 

5. Stir-fried flatbread

This is a modern take on the ever popular and endlessly versatile flatbread. Instead of being sprinkled into soup, crumbled flatbread is stir-fried with bone broth, tomato and chilli over a high heat. Soaking up all those juices, the bread is as chewy as it is flavourful. Snack away on this and other delicacies such as beef skewers and cumin pancake at Matian Snack Paomo near Zhuquemen.  

South-east corner of Zhuque Avenue and Huancheng Road, Beilin District, Xi’an 

6. Shredded flatbread and pig intestine in soup

A speciality of the Han population of Xi’an, this dish is said to have started out as a street snack during the Tang dynasty – featuring pig tripe and intestine infused with herbal medicine prescribed by Sun Simiao, the King of Medicine. Shaanxi has named it another facet of the region’s intangible cultural heritage. For 30 years, Chunfaya has been delighting diners with this hearty dish, in which shredded pig intestine and fresh flatbread come together in a rich and full-bodied broth, leaving you wanting more after each bite. 

South-east corner of Keji 2nd Road and Beisha Road, Xi’an Hi-tech Industries Development Zone, Xi’an 

7. Liangpi 

More traditional fare from the Han people of Shaanxi, liangpi dates all the way back to the Qin dynasty. Sample it at Weijia Cold Noodle, a convenient stopping point after you’ve visited the famed terracotta warriors at the Mausoleum of the First Qin Emperor. A mixture of rice flour and water is steamed to create a thin pancake, which is then shredded into noodles and garnished with seitan and crispy cucumber. Served with crushed garlic, aged vinegar, chilli and sesame paste, this cold dish is perfect for hot summer days. 

F15-01 Services Area, Mausoleum of the First Qin Emperor, Qinhuang Boulevard, Lintong District 

8. Chinese ice cream

At the beloved Shaan Pastry shop in Xi’an, ice cream is served in an array of imaginative, locally inspired flavours – like chilli oil, a bold combination of spicy, savoury and creamy sensations. “We want to present specialties from China in the form of fresh, artisanal ice cream,” says the owner. The fermented glutinous rice flavour is another crowd-pleaser. For traditional sweet treats, Shaan Pastry also sells Qinstyle pastries with pureed fruit fillings and hufu cookies in the shape of a tiger – perfect as souvenirs.  

270 Beiyuanmen Street, Lianhu District, Xi’an (at the juncture of Beiyuanmen and Dapiyuan)