Keeping Hong Kong’s traditional fire dragon dance alive

As dusk falls on a balmy autumn evening in Hong Kong, crowds throng the narrow streets of Tai Hang, eagerly gathering beneath a constellation of street lights and hanging lanterns. At one end of the neighbourhood, in the Lin Fa Kung temple, orders are issued in the Hakka dialect; the fire dragon receives a ceremonial blessing. Drums and gongs thunder to life, and the magnificent dragon structure – held aloft by hundreds of hands and bristling with thousands of burning incense sticks – begins its sinuous slither through the suburb’s main thoroughfare.

At 67 metres in length, the fire dragon is longer than five double-decker buses and takes more than 300 performers to guide. Helming the spectacle is commander-in-chief Almon Cheung, with dragon head captain Angus Wong and dragon tail captain Jack Wong at either end of the procession. Battling the heat and exertion, the performers thrust this theatrical beast forward with passionate vigour, expertly executing traditional manoeuvres such as “The Awakening”, “The Circling”, “Bridge Crossing” and “Double-Pillar Mount”. Along the way, the 12,000 incense sticks are distributed among onlookers as blessings of peace and good health, in the celebratory spirit of Mid-Autumn Festival.

From local tradition to national heritage

Founded in 1880, the Tai Hang Fire Dragon Dance is deeply woven into the fabric of the neighbourhood, which sits on the northern side of Hong Kong Island. “Many Tai Hang residents have been exposed to fire dragon dancing since birth,” says Cheung, himself a long-time resident.

For decades, participation in the dance was restricted to Tai Hang locals. Today, the event has evolved from a superstitious plague-banishing ritual into a beloved community celebration, a centrepiece of Mid-Autumn Festival, which falls annually between mid-September and early October. Jack adds, “In my childhood, the fire dragon dance signified festival time – returning home to reunite with family and friends, and experience Tai Hang’s human warmth.”

In 2011, the fire dragon dance was inscribed in the national list of Intangible Cultural Heritage in recognition of the traditional elements still observed today. Coarse hemp rope and rattan form the dragon’s skeletal framework, bound with pearl straw. The only significant modernisation in the dragon’s construction, says Cheung, is the glaring eyes: originally carved from taro and later replaced by heavy torches, they now shine brighter than ever with LED lights. “Making slight modifications while preserving tradition is perfectly acceptable,” adds the troupe leader, who’s taken part in the dance for more than four decades.

From constructing the dragon to rehearsing choreography, preparations for the dance last about two months, despite the fact most of the volunteer performers maintain full-time jobs. Among the most difficult roles is leading the 48kg dragon head, a task requiring a mix of physical strength and vigilant awareness. Sprains and incense burns are regular occurrences for Angus; one year he broke his arm on the first day of performance, but soldiered on for another two days to ensure the show went on. “There’s an emotional attachment to the fire dragon dance but the dedication of the team is also why I remain,” adds the dragon head captain.

Inheritors of the dragon

Traditions can only continue if new generations are ready to inherit the mantle and, at various points in history, the future of the Tai Hang Fire Dragon Dance has been in question. However, following the example of the late commander-in-chief Chan Tak-fai, Cheung and the team have remained determined to keep the fire dragon dancing.

Up until the 1980s and ’90s, performers were mostly exalted veterans bound by traditional hierarchical concepts. However, under Cheung’s leadership today, the group is more inclusive, welcoming an increasing number of fresh recruits in recent years. “Even with limited experience, if someone possesses adequate ability and burning passion – that inner fire – I welcome them to attempt it,” says the leader. “I won’t stifle anyone’s talent or enthusiasm.”

To nurture this next generation, in 2019 Cheung established the Fire Dragon Youth Team, which now includes more than 100 members. He also devotes time to leading workshops and lectures at schools. Before graduating to the adult group, secondary school students can practise with smaller dragons, and the LED mini fire dragon has become the Tai Hang Fire Dragon Dance’s second flagship programme.

“Successful inheritance requires starting with education,” adds Cheung. “Children enjoy themselves tremendously, as they naturally cultivate a sense of belonging. I find this very fulfilling.”

As well as widening the performer base and energising the next generation, Cheung has done much to introduce a wider public to the art form, creating a carnival-style atmosphere by inviting other performance groups to participate in Tai Hang’s Mid-Autumn celebrations. But that’s just the beginning. “I have another wish,” he muses. “I hope this dragon can venture beyond Hong Kong to perform abroad, so many more people can witness our capabilities first-hand.”

This year’s Tai Hang Fire Dragon Dance takes place daily from 5 to 7 October, with performances in Tai Hang on the 5 and 7 October, then separately in Victoria Park on 6 October. At approximately 6pm, the fire dragon receives its ceremonial blessing at Lin Fa Kung temple. Around 7pm, the dragon procession moves through Wun Sha Street, Sun Chun Street, Shepherd Street, King Street, Shu Kwan Street and other routes. Additionally, Pok Fu Lam Village hosts its own dragon dances.