Another option is to kayak some or all of the park, which gives you access to some of the secret beaches the walkers can’t get to. Bookings for all park activities other than simply driving to the park entrance and walking – such as campsites, huts, kayak tours and water taxis – are essential.

The park may be worth avoiding over summer when the place can be packed, especially between Christmas and New Year. Going between September and early November or late February and April will make for a quieter trip. Autumn is particularly beautiful, with still, clear, warm days, gorgeous sunrises and sunsets, and evenings that are just cold enough to be interesting. The website abeltasman.com will connect you with a plethora of services including local water taxis, camping grounds, sea kayaking, skydiving, information and restaurants.