In many ways, cha chaan tengs are at the heart of Hong Kong’s traditional food scene. Serving an eclectic, no-frills menu of Cantonese-Western dishes, these greasy spoons feed hundreds of thousands of Hongkongers from dawn till dusk.
But with cha chaan tengs found from Kowloon to the outlying islands, it can be hard to know where to go for the most authentic Hong Kong-style milk tea, egg tarts or decadent French toast. So, we’ve scoured the city for the best spots and chosen our favourite joints for your next culinary adventure.
Credit: Elvis Chung
Credit: Elvis Chung
Credit: Elvis Chung
This retro, two-storey establishment tucked away on a quiet corner of Temple Street in Yau Ma Tei is a genuine 1950s time capsule. Mosaic tile flooring, hand-written menus, ceiling fans and wrought-iron window grills have also made this place an iconic filming location for many Hong Kong movies, including Wong Kar-wai's Days of Being Wild (1990). Order a red bean and lotus seed ice drink to go with your choice of baked rice.
G/F, 63 Temple Street, Yau Ma Tei
Credit: South China Morning Post/Getty Images
Credit: Lorriane Mak
Infamous for “light-speed meals”, Australia Dairy Company often has long queues. This crowded cha chaan teng in Jordan is much loved for its set meals of fluffy fried egg, buttered toast, and macaroni in soup with barbeque pork. Top it off with a hearty bowl of steamed egg white milk pudding or egg pudding with almond milk, served hot or cold.
G/F, 47-49 Parkes Street, Jordan
Credit: Elvis Chung
This is a traditional cha chaan teng in Hong Kong with an in-house bakery. For more than 20 years, Golden Garden Restaurant has been serving freshly baked Hong Kong-style-breads and pastries – such as pineapple buns, chicken pies and signature puff-pasty egg tarts. Pair any of these with a cup of silky-smooth milk tea, made from two to three types of leaves for a perfectly balanced treat.
G/F, 314 Castle Peak Road, Cheung Sha Wan
Credit: Elvis Chung
Credit: Elvis Chung
Founded in 1952, Lan Fong Yuen is one of the city’s oldest and most classic cha chaan tengs. The inventor of silk-stocking milk tea now operates two outlets, with the Central branch preserving the charm of its original open-air stall format. Our top picks? The chicken steak noodles with scallion and kaya French toast served with warm butter are also not to be missed.
G/F, 2 Gage Street, Central
Credit: Elvis Chung
Credit: Elvis Chung
Credit: Elvis Chung
This quiet gem hidden behind a banyan tree in Mui Wo is a family-run business spanning over half a century. Come here for the decadent afternoon tea set, with French fries, club sandwiches, and sweet treats served on a tiered tray. For heartier cravings, go for the crispy pork chop buns or the generous French toast for sharing.
G/F, 38F Chung Hau Street, Mui Wo
Credit: Elvis Chung
Yat Café in To Kwa Wan is a unique Japanese take on the traditional cha chaan teng. Tired and weary after a long day? Feel refreshed with homemade omurice with curry sauce and sweetcorn soup, or the delicious penne in soup. Of course, if you want to stick to the classics, you can still order the signature beef noodles in thick satay soup, which is equally amazing.
G/F, 53 Cheung Ning Street, To Kwa Wan
Credit: Elvis Chung
Credit: Elvis Chung
The East-West ethos that defines this bing sutt reached another level when the baton was passed to the next generation. Here, classic egg custard tarts come in milk tea and matcha with red bean mochi. Other exciting new creations include pineapple bun with smoked duck breast and Chinese sausage and dried shiitake mushroom risotto.
G/F, 830 Canton Road, Yau Ma Tei
Credit Elvis Chung
Credit: Elvis Chung
In an expensive city like Hong Kong, running a restaurant can be a high-stakes survival game. Thankfully, there are restauranteurs who go the extra mile to make a real difference in their communities. In addition to a wide range of bargain-priced food options including comforting rice and noodle dishes, Pei Ho Counterparts and owner Ming Gor distribute free meals to those more in need.
278 Tai Nan Street, Sham Shui Po