Fuzhou’s Sanfang Qixiang tells new stories through ancient alleys

Every city has its own soul, and Fuzhou’s can be found at Sanfang Qixiang – literally translated as “three lanes and seven alleys”. Nestled in the heart of the Fujian capital city, the historic area is an Instagrammer’s dream, with winding cobbled streets lined with ancient homes and ornate rooftops. The master layout draws on Tang and Song urban planning theories, though most of the buildings were built centuries later, hence the area’s nickname as the Chinese Mainland’s “Museum of Ming and Qing Dynasty architecture”.

However today, these old alleys are far more than mere memories of an imperial past. In recent years, they have become reimagined as a thriving pedestrian district and tourist haunt awash with hip hangouts and modern culture. So, if you’re looking for things to do in Fuzhou city, we suggest you start right here.

Fuzhou: where to start 

First-time visitors will love a stroll along the cobbled Nanhou Street, which threads through the “three lanes” (Yijin, Wenru and Guanglu) and “seven alleys” (Yangqiao, Langguan, Ta, Huang, Anmin, Gong and Jipi). They cross the ancient residential district, still defined by the lifang system of the Tang and Song dynasties. For a viral snap, don’t miss the heart-shaped banyan tree near Anmin Alley. You can also shop for lovely keepsakes at nearby souvenir stores.

History buffs will want to start at Lin Zexu Memorial Hall, which honours the life and work of the eponymous national hero, who played a forceful role in driving opium out of society in the 19th century. As well as personal effects, the hall features three stone tablets inscribed with imperial edicts, and a fittingly bold statue of the celebrated hero in courtly regalia.

On the north end of Nanhou Street is the former residence of revolutionary hero Lin Juemin and prolific writer Bing Xin. Today, the three-tier courtyard house, or siheyuan, they shared is still shrouded in historical and cultural intrigue. Shaded by bamboo trees, you can almost hear poets reciting verses amid Chinese zither music. Within the grounds, regular Hokkien opera and glove puppetry shows take place on the Shui-xie Stage, celebrating the traditional culture of Fuzhou.  

What to eat around Sanfang Qixiang

Lao Fuzhou is your go-to place for local delicacies. A household name known for fine culinary art, every dish here is a showcase of Fuzhou’s rich culture – such as the crispy lychee sweet and sour pork, and the tender and flavourful fried pork liver. The signature, however, is Buddha Jumps Over the Wall – a shark’s fin soup native to Fujian – slow-cooked with over 20 ingredients for 12 hours.

Sampling the street eats is a must in Fuzhou, where munching on barbecue skewers is a popular local pastime. The 140-year-old Tongli Rouyan Laopu serves bite-sized pork dumplings, or rouyan, a comfort food exquisitely made with paper-thin wrappers. Meanwhile, Hou Jie Lao Hua offers excellent Fuzhou-style noodle soup, topped with enormous portions of seafood and meat, not to mention the al dente rice vermicelli and tasty broth.

To end your night on a sweet note, head to the rustic Yejia Hua Sheng Tang for traditional desserts, such as peanut soup and taro paste. Fancy an updated tea ceremony? Tanmort has gained an online following by combining modern innovation and tradition to concoct sweet but crisp sips.

Fuzhou’s modern nightlife

Despite the sense of history and photogenic patina of age, Sanfang Qixiang transforms into a vibrant, modern nightlife hub at dusk, offering a selection of after-hours haunts. By day, Zuoyeyou is an elegant teahouse hidden inside a bamboo grove; at night, it becomes a trendy bar with bespoke cocktails. The hazy Groovy Bar is another spot for night owls to haunt in a speakeasy setting. Adorned with dim lighting and plush vintage interior, it’s an ideal place for a quiet catch-up over rare drams and homemade cocktails.

Where to shop in Sanfang Qixiang

Fuzhou is home to jasmine flower, and Sanfang Qixiang is dotted with shops selling the fragrant floral infusion. You can taste the sip at Jasmine Tea Culture Museum, a place where you can explore teaware and the brewing process, and take home your own leaves. Another thoughtful gift idea is silverware, for which Fuzhou is known affectionately – take a leisurely browse of the city’s many workshops.

Where to stay in Fuzhou

Just a 15-minute drive away from Sanfang Qixiang, the modern Hilton Fuzhou is conveniently located by the Min River. It offers panoramic views and a rooftop infinity pool overlooking the shore, while Fuzhou International Financial Centre and Minjiang Park are easily accessible on foot.

How to get there

From Hong Kong, Cathay Pacific operates direct flights to Fuzhou. From Fuzhou Changle International Airport, you can comfortably reach Sanfang Qixiang by car in one hour.

Video credit: Van Manh Ta/Getty Images