About two hours east of Almaty, the city’s leafy, Soviet-era boulevards abruptly cease. Ahead lie stretches of golden earth, the ice-capped peaks of the Tien Shan mountains and a sky so vast it bends the horizon.
I came to Kazakhstan in search of Central Asia’s wild frontier. And that journey led me along the Almaty Region’s famed “Golden Ring”, a route that winds through some of the country’s most striking landscapes. Armed with a tour guide, I set off in a four-wheel drive towards the deep, quiet heart of the Kazakh wilderness.
Credit: Victoria
Credit: Victoria
Hearing the voice of the sand
We drive towards Bashy Village, the gateway to Altyn Emel National Park, and stop at the Singing Dune (Aygai Kum) – a massive, 150-metre ridge of golden sand wedged between two mountains. What appears to be a straightforward walk quickly becomes a scramble; with every step, the sand seems to liquefy beneath our feet. As we slide down the slope, the sand shifts, triggering a resonant, otherworldly drone that vibrates up through our legs and into our chests.
While science attributes this effect to friction between sand grains, my guide tells me that local legend identifies it as “the soul of Genghis Khan, buried deep beneath the earth, recounting his greatest battles to the wind”.
Credit: Victoria
Into the Aktau mountains
Formed over 400 million years, the Aktau Mountains are a stark canvas of chalk white, copper red and pale yellow. Standing among them, I'm struck by the absolute silence of this landscape – especially after a 2-hour drive in a rattling car. There’s no wind, no birdsong, only the crunch of an ancient seabed beneath our shoes and the relentless 40-degree heat radiating from the rock faces.
The canyon floor – once a prehistoric seabed – glitters with quartz, and nearby gorges are covered in ancient petroglyphs. It’s incredible to think that ancient creatures once swam here.
Credit: Victoria
Credit: Victoria
Hiking trails in Charyn Canyon
Known as the “Valley of Castles”, Charyn Canyon feels like a geological time machine. Starting at the rim, we hike downhill toward the canyon floor. Soaring eagles float above and gerbils dart between massive stone pillars as we descend.
Towards the end of the trail, the desert heat gives way to the cool rush of the Charyn River. Here, the Tugai forest shelters a rare, Unesco-recognised Sogdian ash grove that miraculously survived the Ice Age. The Charyn Canyon is one of only two places on Earth where this species still naturally grows.
Credit: Victoria
Visiting Moon Canyon
A 20-minute drive from Charyn lies Moon Canyon. Hidden away from tourist pathways, this untamed landscape resembles the surface of the moon – though its domed rock formations also reminded me of traditional yurts. Our guide steers us toward a jagged vantage point offering a breathtaking panorama.
Credit: Victoria
A night in Saty village
As the sun dips behind the mountains, we pull into Saty, a small village that serves as the basecamp for exploring the nearby lakes. At the local guesthouse, I swap stories with our guides over cups of hot shay (tea), bowls of hearty beshbarmak (boiled meat with homemade noodles), and baskets of fresh baursak – puffy, golden fried dough balls.
Credit: Victoria
Credit: Victoria
Credit: Victoria
Up to the Kolsai lakes
The following morning, we swap sun-baked plains for the peaceful mountain refuge of the Kolsai Lakes nature reserve. The air is noticeably cooler here, tinged with the fresh scent of petrichor and pine needles. Boats dot the first lake we visit, bobbing gently on the water, and scenic wood-paved footpaths trail along the water’s edge.
As we continue along the path towards the middle lake, we find ourselves flanked by fields of wildflowers, towering pine forests and freshwater streams rushing down from the glaciers. We pause under majestic peaks, taking a moment to truly appreciate the beauty of this place.
Credit: Victoria
Credit: Victoria
Tranquillity at Lake Kaindy
Legs heavy from the previous day’s hike, we trade our trekking poles for saddles, riding 40 minutes along muddy trails to reach Lake Kaindy. While a novice at horse riding, I quickly settle into our mounts’ steady rhythm as they make their way up the steep trails.
The rewarding view of Lake Kaindy leaves me lost for words: an impossibly turquoise pool punctuated by the ghostly trunks of submerged spruce trees. Standing in the awed silence of this submerged forest feels like the perfect ending to my journey.