The Hong Kong designers evolving tradition

It’s the 1960s, and you’re strolling through the streets of Hong Kong. Women from all walks of life pass by, from early morning shoppers heading to the wet market to high-profile politicians, wearing a perfectly tailored cheongsam (also referred to as a qipao). Fast forward to the present and you’ll notice casual silhouettes, baggy jeans and statement sneakers over bespoke cuts from the ‘60s. 

Although fewer qipao-clad women are seen around the city now, there has been a renewed interest in Hong Kong’s traditional style. A fresh wave of designers is referencing the past and breathing a fresh, contemporary spirit into it. 

This shift toward modern heritage style is evident in Hong Kong label Sau Lee , known for its instantly recognisable Chinese sartorial fashion. Think mandarin collars, sleek form-fitting cuts and handcrafted frog fastenings updated with lace trims, alluring cut-outs and contemporary fabrics. Aiming to satisfy the revived appetite for heritage dressing, the brand began creating collections that addressed a gap in the market between the bespoke cheongsams of the 1960s and the fast-fashion variants churned out today.  

As a result, Sau Lee has solidified itself as a mainstay among Chinese fashion labels drawing inspiration from their past, and it is far from the only brand doing so. Yan Shang Kee’s rentals and tailor-made designs also home in on the qipao, bringing lively prints and delicate sheer lace accents into the mix. Then there’s Hong Kong designer Natacha Van , who draws on the multicultural influences of Cambodian, French and Chinese heritage. 

Why are we so nostalgic?

Few images capture the vibrant spirit of Hong Kong better than its neon street signs. Areas such as Mong Kok were once crowded with vibrant lights, filling the streets with a distinctive glow reminiscent of a scene from a Wong Kar-wai film. Each sign fought to outshine the rest, beckoning people into to peruse their goods or feast on local delicacies. Today, you’re more likely to find these luminous icons preserved in museums or dangling off keychains than hanging overhead. Yet memories of those radiant avenues continue to inspire and encapsulate a longing for the past.  

Bruce Li, curator of the exhibition Snuggle and Stitch at the Centre for Heritage Arts & Textiles (CHAT) describes why the past draws people in. “I find that past traditions in Hong Kong are a very good way to connect with a former generation.”

The Snuggle and Stitch exhibition focuses on local childhood textiles and, at first look, the nostalgia factor is strong: brightly coloured plastic dolls dressed up in neon-like hues, vibrant toys shaped like myriad animals and handmade garments adorned with clashing patterns. Yet these childhood objects are more than just visual throwbacks. When asked what inspires our nostalgia, Li explained how it's a natural cycle to look back. When we revisit the past, we're also revisiting the memories, stories and context of those times, reconnecting with generations before us and the narratives they passed down.

Li continues, “I think a lot of us today have asked our parents why it's so easy for them to throw away something that they've made in the past. And it's not that they didn't love it. In fact, ironically, it was simply an everyday object.”  

Sau Lee’s founder Cheryl Leung draws inspiration from the women in her life, including her mother, whom she remembers wearing cheongsams for special celebrations.

So perhaps we nostalgically turn to the past, hoping to restore everyday tales and traditions we witnessed in our memories, with their significance often going unnoticed until they begin to fade away. 

The next generation 

Hong Kong’s fast pace may mean some things get left in the past, including cheongsams worn as daily wear, but a new generation is surging forwards to keep traditions alive. All over the city, local clothing brands and contemporary shops are paying homage to their roots in different ways. From time-honoured craftsmanship to subtle cultural references, these tributes are everywhere – here are several names worth keeping on your radar. 

Sindart 

Third-generation owner Miru Wong learned to embroider from her grandma and now dons slippers with playful images of Shiba Inus and pandas. 

Shop 16-17, 1/F, Bowring Commercial Centre, 150-164 Woo Sung Street, Jordan, Kowloon

King’s Slippers 

King’s Slippers’ finely embroidered slippers begin with fabric sourced from Sham Shui Po, are crafted in a studio in Tsuen Wan, before finally arriving in their compact boutique in North Point.

G/F, Majestic Apartments, 315 King's Road

YanYan 

Vibrant, fun and eclectic, YanYan stands out for its dopamine-boosting knitwear, featuring traditional motifs, from florals to zodiac animals, to imbue wearers with good fortune. 

Participation 

This Hong Kong athletic wear brand features nostalgic designs that strike a chord with anyone who’s ever called the city home. Highlights include its hunter green Happy Valley singlet, illustrated with a retro design of joggers circling a racetrack.  

Hoopla 

Hoopla is all about nostalgic knits with familiar references. Images of mid-autumn lanterns, cartons of VLT lemon tea and hawthorn flakes are fashioned into crossbody bags, blankets and various lifestyle goods. 

Kiosk 9, 4/F, D2 Place ONE, 9 Cheung Yee Street, Lai Chi Kok

Victoria 

Skate culture and heritage design is not a combination you’d normally expect, but Victoria bridges the two seamlessly to cater to both the local and global skate scene.

4/F, 102 Jervois Street, Sheung Wan

Jüü Jüü 

Jüü Jüü’s jewellery functions as small talismans, with every piece holding meaning linked to its gemstones, while distinctive Y2K aesthetics appeal to the Gen Z crowd.