Siu yeh – “night snack” – is the unofficial fourth meal that Hongkongers unanimously go for after dark. It’s time for siu yeh when I’ve had a late night with friends and have the munchies, or after I’ve had a long day at work. You can always count on the late-night eateries to serve delicious food whenever you need it.

Dim sum is a siu yeh option that locals would never turn down. Sun Hing Restaurant, which opens at 3am, in Kennedy Town has long been a favourite among grannies and grandpas, students who are pulling an all-nighter and, of course, partygoers. I still remember my first drunken dim sum meal there, and how I did an inner dance when I saw the deep-fried milk (a crispy, creamy dessert) on the counter. The best part? Going straight for the bamboo baskets and lifting the lids one by one to see which treasure awaited. Somehow siu mai with quail eggs, and runny egg yolk and custard buns taste even better past midnight, and my stomach knows no limit when its favourite comfort food is coming.

My current favourite late-night spot is Wong Kee Restaurant in Wan Chai, a no-frills Chiu Chow joint with handwritten menus on the walls. One time, we went all out and ordered a full table: soup rice filled to the brim with mini oysters, pig’s blood with chives, sea snails simmered in wine and chilli sauce, chilled grey mullets with fermented bean paste, and a platter of braised goose, tofu and goose intestines. With that meal I gave my visiting friends a taste of what siu yeh was all about: stuffing ourselves with great food and washing it down with plenty of tea.

For lighter late-night munchies, Tai On Building in Sai Wan Ho is known for its cheap local eats, open till late. My go-tos are deep-fried siu mai drizzled with honey, piping hot Hong Kong-style waffles with condensed milk, peanut butter and white sugar, or a bowl of Chongqing noodles with minced pork, chilli paste and heaps of spring onions. When you drop by, tell them Ashley the food tour girl sent you.