A first-timer’s guide to Milan, Italy

Cosmopolitan and stylish, Milan is Italy’s most dynamic city and a great place to spend a long weekend. Whether you’re hunting for designer labels or sampling its superb cuisine, Milan blends elegance and novelty throughout its historic piazzas and viali. From fashion and food to architecture and art, the city has something for every type of traveller. Read on to find out how shop, eat and spend time in one of the global capitals of chic like a native Milanese.

Where to start

For high-end retail therapy, head to the Fashion Quadrangle, the city’s classiest neighbourhood and home to some of the world’s most sought-after labels. Brera is best for boho-chic vibes, art galleries and pretty boutiques, and Porta Venezia is Milan’s unofficial queer district – lively, multicultural, and full of character. Porta Romana tempts with food and elegant architecture, while Navigli is for nightlife and vintage shopping.

What to see

The city’s showstopper is the Duomo, one of Europe’s most jaw-dropping cathedrals. Marvel at the soaring spires, 3,400 statues, 135 gargoyles and 700 figures carved into its exterior. Next door is Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Italy’s oldest shopping arcade and a jewel of 19th-century Art Nouveau. Known as Milan’s “drawing room”, it’s an ideal place to browse Prada or sip an espresso at Marchesi 1824.

Walk through the Galleria to reach Teatro alla Scala, another Milan mainstay. Since opening in 1778, it’s served as the stage for the premieres of many major performances – from Verdi's Nabucco to Puccini's Madama Butterfly. 

Set aside the next day for Parco Sempione, a sprawling green space in the heart of Milan. Within its grounds you’ll find the 19th-century Arco della Pace, the city’s own Arc de Triomphe; Triennale Milano, Italy’s leading design museum; and the mighty Sforza Castle, a 15th-century fortress of moats, towers and vast courtyards.

​​The great Leonardo Da Vinci’s presence is felt throughout Milan, and nowhere more profoundly than in the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, where his masterpiece The Last Supper awaits. Book your visit in advance as tickets sell out fast.

What to eat and drink

Milan’s food scene is wonderfully diverse – you’ll find every kind of international cuisine here. Start with a classic breakfast of brioche and cappuccino, best enjoyed standing at one of the myriad neighbourhood cafés; or linger at bakeries like Pavé,  or the Scandi-inspired Loste Cafe . 

Lunch should be dedicated to savouring Milan’s comfort food classics: golden and crispy cotoletta alla milanese, creamy saffron risotto alla Milanese and rich, slow-cooked ossobuco. Institutions such as Antica Osteria Il Ronchettino and Trattoria del Nuovo Macello  serve these dishes at their finest. Craving something lighter and less meat-heavy? Head to Zibo Campo Base or Sugo , both rooted in tradition but with fresher, more delicate flavours and plenty of vegetarian options. 

Of course, no visit to Milan is complete without an aperitivo, a cherished Milanese ritual. Order a Spritz – the city’s quintessential pre-dinner drink – or go bold with a Negroni at Camparino in Galleria and Bar Basso (where the Negroni Sbagliato was allegedly born). If wine is more your style, Osteria alla Concorrenza and e/n Enoteca Naturale pour some of the city’s finest natural selections.

For dinner, turn to Milan’s modern side: contemporary Italian at Nebbia , Trippa and Ratana , or inventive plates at Rost, Spore  and the vegetarian Altatto . Still not sure where to begin? We’ve curated a list of essential dining spots.

Where to shop

Milan is Italy’s fashion capital and home to flagships such as Prada, Gucci and Valentino, but the city’s indie boutiques and second-hand stores are equally worth exploring. Browse the racks at Massimo Alba in Brera for beautifully crafted women’s and men’s clothes and luxurious cashmere pieces, or step into the imaginative world of designer Antonio Marras in his intimate Tortona showroom Nonostante Marras. For something eclectic, explore the collections of Wait and See, a colourful shop housed inside a former 18th-century convent in the historic 5Vie neighbourhood. Vintage lovers shouldn’t miss Cavalli & Nastri  or Bivio. Be sure to also check out our guide to the best places to shop in Milan.

Where to stay

Set within what was one of Europe’s oldest seminaries, Portrait Milano is among the best hotels in the city. Rooms and suites are modern, with nods to mid-century Milanese design and spacious living quarters. Meanwhile, its restaurants and bar are some of the most popular in town with Milanese locals. 

Close by, the Four Seasons Hotel Milano is another excellent option if you want to hunker down in style. Like the Portrait, it’s housed in a historic building – this time, a former 15th-century convent. Here, modern design details blend with Old World charm and the rooms are luxurious and blissfully quiet.  

For a more boutique stay, try Casa Brivio or Vico Milano. The former is a 10-minute walk from the Duomo, with 16 rooms featuring custom-designed interiors inspired by mid-20th century Milanese modernism. The latter, tucked between the centro storico and the Navigli district, only has seven rooms, each kitted out with handcrafted Italian furnishings and the owner’s collection of personal antiques.