Discover "bobo" Paris through its largest urban park, La Petite Ceinture

The last time a passenger train ran through La Petite Ceinture in Paris, it was 1934. Once a vital industrial artery, its steel rails were abandoned, left quietly to be reclaimed by nature – until recently, thanks to a careful, ongoing revitalisation of the 32km, city-circling route. 

La Petite Ceinture, which translates to “the little belt”, is home to a remarkable biodiversity that has earned it the unofficial title of Paris’s largest and greenest park. Years of work by dedicated local associations and city officials have since transformed segments of the route into an urban parkway celebrating sustainability and the enduring “bobo” (bourgeois-bohemian) soul of Paris.  

First constructed under Napoleon III and his master planner Baron Haussmann in 1852, La Petite Ceinture welcomed as many as 38 million travellers during the Exposition Universelle of 1900. It was gradually abandoned as the city’s subway network expanded, until the city of Paris and SNCF, France’s state-owned national railway operator, agreed to revitalise and transform it. Since 2007, various stretches have reopened to the public, with around 10km currently accessible, and new Left Bank access set to open in 2026 in the 13th arrondissement. 

Nowadays, walking its accessible sections feels like discovering a parallel city – an  accidental sanctuary that reveals Paris in layers. One moment, you’re on a classic Haussmannian boulevard; the next, you descend into a green canyon, where graffiti-clad station houses stand guard over century-old railway sleepers now cradling bursts of wildflowers. 

In a city craving authentic third spaces, and where every Instagrammable café is saturated, La Petite Ceinture offers something truly new. After all, where else in Paris can you walk ten kilometres through hidden gardens and green corridors, explore abandoned, graffitied stations and echoing tunnels, then settle beside the rails in a new eco-conscious restaurant, all to the sound of a live jazz jam?  

This is a welcome breathing space within the metropolis – a place for Parisians to escape the city without ever leaving it. Discover your own way through with our La Petite Ceinture guide below. 

How to access La Petite Ceinture 

Several sections of the 32km loop have been redeveloped and are now accessible to the public, with each distinct section offering each a unique character. Read on to find out which one is right for you. 

Route 1: The northern industrial trace 

From the iconic Parc des Buttes-Chaumont to the modern Parc Clichy-Batignolles Martin Luther King, this 7km northern stretch invites you to explore Paris’ industrial roots. Cross steel bridges over the Canal de l’Ourcq and pass the vast rail yards of two of the capital’s main train stations: Gare du Nord and Gare de l’Est. Follow the path leading to the lush community Jardins du Ruisseau and Parc Chapelle Charbon. Refuel at La Recyclerie or Le Hasard Ludique, two buzzing cafés built into old stations with direct rail access, before diving into the sprawling treasures of the Marché aux puces de Saint-Ouen, a sprawling labyrinth of warehouses and alleyways on the northern edge of Paris. 

Route 2: The vibey villages of the east 

A walker’s favourite, this 8km eastern route links two iconic green spaces. Begin at the serene Père-Lachaise Cemetery on a recently opened section and finish in the dramatic Parc des Buttes-Chaumont. The path winds through the village-like streets of Charonne and Belleville. Two long tunnels briefly divert you to ground level – a perfect excuse to explore the charming, narrow lanes of old Paris. For a true hidden gem, take a detour to the secretive hilltop enclave of Butte Bergeyre. Eat, drink and catch a show at La Flèche d’Or. 

Route 3: The eclectic south 

Ideal for a first encounter, this 10km southern route is a microcosm of the entire line, stretching from Pont du Garigliano to Pont National. Walk the rails on viaducts, through trenches, and past the towers of Les Olympiades in Paris’ Chinatown. This section offers the most walking on the original tracks, with the graceful passage through Parc Montsouris as its highlight. Treat yourself to comforting dishes at Le Poinçon, then make a detour to the beautiful district of Peupliers in the 13th arrondissement. 

Route 4: The haute West 

This 9km western route from Parc Martin Luther King to Pont du Garigliano follows elegant promenades built atop the railway, which runs hidden in a tunnel below. Traverse the affluent 16th and 17th arrondissements, where Haussmann stone and Art Nouveau replace street art, and the old line skirts the luxurious Avenue Foch. The “bobo” Paris spirit is subtler here, but the architectural rewards are rich. For a striking modernist contrast, detour to the iconic villas of Rue Mallet-Stevens, and reflect on your journey over a drink at La Brasserie Auteuil, or the dual music venues of La Gare / Le Gore.