Picture Seattle: a city of shining high-rises, bustling seafood markets and revered museums, all hugged by a sparkling inlet of the Pacific Ocean. Giant ferries and sleek catamarans skim across the water and, on clear days, a snow-covered Mount Rainier rises in the distance.
Nature envelops Seattle. Nestled between water and mountains – the Cascades rising to the east and Puget Sound to the west, with the Olympic Mountains beyond – the Pacific Northwest’s premier city is the gateway to an unfolding landscape of lakes, rainforests and volcanoes formed over millions of years. With this guide to Seattle’s scenic hinterland, you can explore the region’s abundant and astonishing natural beauty with ease.

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Whether you have several days or just a few hours in Seattle, get out onto the water via a hop-on ferry and make your way across Elliott Bay to one of Puget Sound’s quaint island communities. The closest is Bainbridge Island, home to lush forests and quiet commuter neighbourhoods; after a 35-minute ferry ride, you’ll arrive at the island’s main district of Winslow, where independent shops specialise in freshly roasted coffee and home-baked pastries.
A wooded waterfront trail leads to a sleepy marina. Here, you can grab a deck seat at Harbour Public House and relish Willapa Bay oysters or Pacific Coast Dungeness crab. If you plan to stay overnight, the Eagle Harbor Inn offers comfort in bucolic surroundings. Otherwise, time your return ferry ride to catch the brilliant sunset over downtown Seattle.

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Renting a car for a road trip from Seattle allows you to venture further afield and experience the splendour of Olympic National Park. Pack your rain gear for misty, waterfall-studded hiking trails in the Hoh Rainforest or indulge in a soak at Sol Duc Hot Springs Resort . The historic Lake Quinault Lodge , set on the banks of a glacially carved lake and surrounded by towering evergreens, makes for a sublime spot for dinner, while elegant rooms provide a comfortable overnight stay.

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When it comes to four-wheel excursions, you can’t miss a day trip to Mount Rainier, a 4,300-metre-tall active volcano south-east of Seattle. Habitually hazy weather means you won’t always be able to spot this landmark from afar, making it worth the drive for an up-close look. For the best view, stick to back roads and approach the mountain via the small town of Eatonville, stopping for lunch at alpine village-inspired Mill Haus Cider Co . Alternatively, drive onwards a little further to the Copper Creek Inn for an unbeatable slice of wild blackberry pie. Once you reach Mount Rainier National Park’s Nisqually entrance, head to Paradise, a scenic mountain spot known for its alpine lakes, wildflower meadows and panoramic views. The refurbished Paradise Inn is open from May to September.

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North of Seattle, Skagit Valley is an area of picturesque farmland and mountain wilderness. The Skagit Valley Tulip Festival draws thousands of visitors every April, while the locales of Edison and La Conner beckon with their boutique shops and small-town charm.
Begin in Edison, where you can grab a hearty potato-and-leek pastry from the walk-up window at Breadfarm , or shop for artisanal cheeses at Samish Bay Cheese . Then head out for a leisurely walk along the Padilla Bay Shore Trail. The bay is rich in wildlife, with vast swathes of eelgrass harbouring salmon, crab and other invertebrates that provide food for eagles, herons, otters and seals.
A 15-minute drive south takes you to La Conner; once the terminus for river steamers carrying lumber and timber, this waterfront town is today a hub for artists selling everything from wood carvings to one-of-a-kind clothing in the shops along Front Street. A seafood lunch with a view here is always a delight, but if you’re in the mood for something different, visit Coa , a Mexican joint serving up gluten-free, vegan and vegetarian twists on traditional dishes from the owners’ hometown of Durango. When it comes to lodgings, choose between vintage elegance at Hotel Planter on La Conner’s main street or contemporary character at the waterfront Channel Lodge . Next morning, the drive back to Seattle affords a last chance to savour the serenity that encircles this beguiling city.
Arrival: Seattle-Tacoma Airport’s international terminal lies 20km from downtown Seattle, reachable by Link Light Rail, buses and taxis. Sea-Tac’s volunteers help travellers find their way around the airport – just look for the team in green.
Weather: Most visitors will spend their time exploring Western Washington, where the climate is temperate year-round. While the rainy season can be long (from October to June), expect light mist rather than downpours or thunderstorms. Eastern Washington, east of the Cascade Mountains, has a desert climate, with hot, dry summers and cold winters.
Clothing: Layers are best. Come prepared for cool nights, even in summer. Casual dress is the norm almost anywhere, and many residents prefer to pull on a hooded waterproof jacket rather than carry an umbrella.