Why Busan’s Songjeong Beach is a dream for beginner surfers

Two years ago, I tried surfing for the first time – and promptly gave it up. My lesson on Venice Beach in California mostly involved being thrashed around by towering waves. I began to think that surfing just wasn’t for me. But when I heard about South Korea’s burgeoning surf scene and its beginner-friendly Songjeong Beach, I wondered if the right beach might change everything.

It’s early July in Busan. The sun blazes but the water is invitingly cool. Surf lessons are in full swing, with students queuing patiently for waves. We cheer on each other as our instructor from the school Surf Holic helps us onto our boards. The shallow water and gentle waves make even the clumsiest landings feel smooth. I can see why people love it here.

A surfers’ beach

Unlike postcard-ready Gwangalli Beach and Haeundae Beach, which are popular among Busan travellers, Songjeong is known as a surfers’ haven. No sunbathers or inflatables here – just surfboard racks and about 20 surf shops. Clean and quiet, it’s ideal for learning at your own pace.

Songjeong’s reputation stems from Meehie Seo, a pro surfer who opened one of the first surf shops in South Korea here, Songjeong Surfing Club , in the 1990s. “Songjeong’s moderate temperatures make it suitable for surfing year-round,” she says. “The water’s waist-deep and the waves are gentle.”

Inspired by other surfing destinations like Bali, Seo envisioned a surf culture where people wake up excited for the morning waves. “Songjeong equals surfing,” she says. “It’s beginner- and family-friendly. Just yesterday, a 70-year-old grandmother came to try surfing for the first time. My goal is for everyone to love surfing.”

The new wave

At Surfgym , founder Kyungsik Min trains elite juniors, including 13-year-old Kai Kim, who’s been surfing since she was nine months old. “In the water, I feel like I’m in my own world,” she says.

Kai’s mother, Cheryl Kim, moved from Canada to South Korea 23 years ago to work as a business professor, only to open a surf school, which she ran until 2019. Now, Kim runs the Songjeong Expat Surf Club on Facebook and continues teaching. “I get lots of first-time surfers,” says Kim. “I had a student from New Zealand who found the waves back home intimidating, while Songjeong felt safer. Many of my students become like my family – I see them year after year.”

One of Kim’s regulars, Yujin Park, travels from Seoul every three weeks to surf. “Compared to other beaches in Busan, Songjeong Beach is more natural,” says Park. “Instead of cars, crowds of people and the multitude of buildings in Busan, when you’re out in the water, the view is endless ocean.” Kim, meanwhile, has surfed in a number of other countries but finds the sport most welcoming at home: “There‘s an open, inclusive atmosphere. The community is encouraging and supportive.”

No time like the present

Songjeong Beach is gaining international attention, thanks in part to the Visit Busan Pass , launched in 2023. The pass includes wetsuit and surfboard rental at Surf Holic as well as access to more than 40 attractions. Some are nearby, such as the Haeundae Beach Train, Skyline Luge Busan and Lotte World Adventure Busan, putting tourists in the beach’s path.

Kim welcomes the growth. “Public transportation has played a big role. Before the Busan Metro line was extended to Songjeong Station in 2016, only surfers came out. Now, there are cafés, restaurants and small businesses. There’s lots of personality and character.”

Even with these new developments, it’s clear that the heart of Songjeong Beach remains the same. You only need to stroll along its sandy stretch to see that. I arrive here simply wanting to learn how to surf but walk away having discovered a passionate community, a beach that balances peace with vitality and a hidden gem that’s still being polished with love.

A guide to Songjeong surfing etiquette

Do

Keep your schedule open, as most shops offer free surfing time after your class.

Remember to bring sunscreen and a swimsuit to wear under your wetsuit.

Don’t

Show up without booking a class, as shops can get quite busy.

Forget to return your surfboard to your surf shop’s assigned rack on the beach.

Hotels near Songjeong to rest your head

The Coolest Hotel

This hip boutique hotel embraces mid-century modern decor in its bold gemstone hues.

Ije Busan

Unwind with the ryokan hotel’s outdoor hinoki baths and highball tables, available in all rooms, and reserve your spot at the private rooftop pool.

Ananti at Busan Cove

This luxurious five-star retreat by Hilton is part of a self-contained luxury resort town that includes shops, restaurants, spa facilities and more.

Where to fuel up for outdoor activities

Nibble

Must-orders at this trendy brunch spot include the signature corn french toast.

Suwol Gyeonghwa

Enjoy exquisite traditional desserts and ocean views at this hanok-style teahouse .

Sunrise Bowl

Decorated with repurposed surfboard art, this colourful spot serves organic smoothies and acai bowls.