Zero-meat Zurich

The world knows Zurich for its artisanal chocolate, high-end watches and private banking, but the dapper Swiss financial centre also has a vibrant dining scene – one that’s been warmly embracing the plant-based movement in recent years. Stroll its diverse districts and you will find everything from juicy burgers and shawarma to artisanal pastries and cakes to the classic cheese fondue, all made without meat or animal products.

Despite the Swiss’s well-documented love of cured meat and cheese, Zurich has plant-based pedigree and precedent. Since the 19th century, eating meat-free has been associated with longevity for typically health-conscious Zurchers. One of whom, physician Maximilian Bircher-Benner – of muesli fame – prescribed patients a strict raw vegan diet and popularised eating fruit, vegetables and nuts instead of meat during the late 1800s.

One of his patients, Ambrosius Hiltl, was so sold on the lifestyle that he ended up taking over an establishment that would become Haus Hiltl , the  oldest vegetarian restaurant in the world: it celebrates its 125th anniversary this year. Generations later, Hiltl is still family-run, encompassing a multi-storey flagship and several other locations in Zurich, plus Tibits, a buffet chain with branches across Switzerland.

Although vegetarianism gained further popularity among the Swiss in the 1980s, it was seen as a niche lifestyle, and many of Hiltl’s customers followed the diet for health or religious reasons. That was until current owner Rolf Hiltl took over and chased away the brand’s traditional image by bringing in alcohol and experimenting with new ideas, like turning the restaurant into a nightclub after hours, cementing Hiltl’s role on Zurich’s dining landscape.

“It went from somewhere you’d go to for health reasons to somewhere fun where you’d get a great meal,” says Jörg Stindt, the restaurant group’s CFO and co-CEO. “Part of our success is that we attract people who are not vegetarian. They might want to eat less meat – or they just like our food.”

Last year’s Swiss Vegan Awards were dominated by Zurich businesses, highlighting a surge in new businesses and restaurants spanning the world’s cuisines and a new legion of young culinary stars – and establishing the trendy suburb of Sihlfeld, where many of the new eateries are located, as a meat-free mecca of sorts in the city.

Zineb “Zizi” Hattab has three hit venues under her belt, including Dar , a Middle Eastern brunch spot and Cor, a wine and vegan tapas bar and one of the best vegan restaurants in Zurich. But the jewel in her crown is KLE , a tiny neighbourhood dining room whose Michelin star dispels any suggestions that fine dining must feature meat. Diners are presented with wine-paired bites that spotlight unusual ingredients from around the world and deliver complex flavour combinations.

Dishes alternate between angelically light and sumptuously rich: a zingy gazpacho topped with blackberries and fluffy walnut ricotta is followed by a potato millefeuille which, sticky with smoky sauce, recalls a piece of roast pork. A similarly exacting, experimental approach is taken at the nearby Marktküche , where tattooed chef Tobias Hoesli leverages exceptional Swiss terroir with a touch of wizardry, as seen in his cucumber “caviar” with salty foam and smoked carrot curled like a piece of sashimi. No seafood lover would miss fish.

Bianca Legorreta went from posting her completely vegan home bakes on Instagram to founding White Rabbit Bakery , whose egg- and dairy-free confections are sold from her brick-and-mortar boutique, Moon . A counter of gooey plum Danish whirls sit invitingly alongside artisanal Swiss chocolates decorated with alpine flowers, dried figs or candied pecans, and come beautifully packaged for a take-home gift.

Before 2020, there were few options for vegetarians or vegans in Zurich; now there is an ever-growing roster of eateries and endless choices. “That was a pivotal year for veganism in Zurich,” says Legorreta. “We may have been behind other countries, but change came fast as a result of the pandemic. People have generally become more conscious and focused on healthier lifestyles and sustainability. We make our products with the best ingredients possible, which is what Swiss food is about.”

Hattab adds, “We’ve seen mindsets change over the years, with more people becoming receptive to plant-based choices or adopting flexitarian diets. Many customers are reluctant towards veganism, but once they’ve tasted our food, the conversation changes and they are very curious and interested in what we do.”

For the food at any of these venues, being vegan is second to it being tasteful and delicious, served in a way that creates a special dining experience.

“We advocate for a plant-based diet by emphasising all the positive things you can add instead of take away. We’ve had customers who ate our products for months before realising they were vegan,” says Legorreta.

“We want to show how fun, interesting and sexy plant-based can be.”

8 best vegetarian restaurants in Zurich

1. Haus Hiltl 

Proudly historic at 125 years old, yet never resting on its laurels, Haus Hiltl’s reputation draws diners from all over the world with its by-the-weight buffet and creative à la carte menu built around global flavours.

2. KLE

Zizi Hattab has perfected the vegan fine dining formula at the one-Michelin-starred KLE . An evolving, elegantly presented modern European menu delights with unusual herbs, flowers and textures.

3. Marktküche

White tablecloths and low, warm lighting create a beautiful stage for celebrating Swiss produce at this one-Michelin-starred, fully plant-based restaurant led by chef Tobias Hoesli.

4. DAR

This unbuttoned Middle Eastern restaurant and cocktail bar by Zizi Hattab is the perfect spot for long, lazy weekend brunches that pack a big-flavoured punch.

5. Moon

Sink your teeth into a podgy glazed pastry or pick out a selection box of artisanal Swiss chocolates at this all-vegan bakery and coffee shop.

6. Beetnut

Huge salad bowls, smoothies, burgers, juices and sorbets make Beetnut the perfect fly-by lunch spot, but stay for a glass of wine if you have the time.

7. Roots Kitchen

The athletic crowd flock to this hipster cantina for its healthy smoothies, juices, soups and salads – all plant-based, of course.

8. John Baker

The Bahnhofstrasse branch of Zurich’s popular and affordable organic bakery and coffee shop chain serves only meat-free sandwiches and pastries.