In it to win it: a guide to Macao

Macao made it big as the world’s casino capital, but Hong Kong’s sister SAR has grand aspirations to reposition itself as a cultural destination with global appeal. In its ambitious plan to diversify its economy, Macao is set to grow a fintech sector from scratch and lure investment in life sciences. Meanwhile, its resorts and casinos are set to collectively invest at least US$13.5 billion over the next decade in arts venues and leisure facilities. 

World-leading leisure, dining and entertainment are still par for the course in Macao, but any stay in one of the glamorous hotels on the Cotai Strip is only enhanced by time spent taking in the city’s extraordinary heritage sites and exploring older parts of town on foot. More than ever, Macao is determined to show visitors the extraordinary range of what its 33 square kilometres can offer. 

Where to start 

Begin the day with strong coffee and pastéis de nata (Portuguese egg tarts) at Loja dos Pastéis de Chaves in Santo António parish. The tarts here are the real Portuguese deal, but for extra authenticity, do as the Lusitanians do and spike your pastries with sugar and cinnamon – you’ll be more than adequately fuelled for the 20-minute pilgrimage to Lilau Square.  

It isn’t any one aspect of Lilau but rather the sum of its parts that make it so entrancing: the crumbling Art Deco houses that line it, elderly residents chatting beneath its spreading tree, and children playing games on the calçada portuguesa paving. There’s a fountain in the corner, and locals say that anyone who drinks from it is sure to return to Macao. If you’re not thirsty, throwing in a coin will hopefully produce the same result. 

From here, it’d be a shame not to stroll around the corner to the Mandarin’s House . The sometime home of 19th-century reformist and author Zheng Guanying exemplifies Macao’s Chinese heritage as Lilau does its Portuguese. 

What to do 

If you’ve had your fill of the Ruins of St Paul’s and the A-Ma Temple, take a walk on the wild side. Northern Macao has long been underplayed, but urban explorers will love this characterful, densely populated town, which contrasts with the polish of Cotai. You can find the 13th-century Kun Iam Tong temple in this part of the peninsula, as well as the Xian Xinghai Memorial Museum , which commemorates the iconic Macao-born composer behind the masterpiece Yellow River Cantata. 

Similarly, if you’ve seen enough pastel-coloured Portuguese mansions, you can spend several fascinating hours taking in an overlooked part of Macao’s architectural heritage: its Modernist masterpieces. From the dour concrete form of the Rainha D. Leonor Buildin g, one of the best expressions of the modernist style in Macao, to the light-filled Escola Portuguesa de Macau, Macao is a surprising trove of Bauhaus and Brutalism. Arm yourself with a sturdy pair of walking shoes and a copy of Macau Modern Architecture – Walking Guide by local architect Rui Leão. 

What to eat in Macao 

As the home of the Unesco-recognised world’s first fusion cuisine – a glorious, 450-year-old blend of Indian, African, Moluccan, Chinese and Portuguese flavours devised by the creole Macanese community – Macao knows all about good eats. Try for yourself at Macanese restaurants like Cozinha Aida , set up by the son of Aida Rafaela Rosa de Jesus, the late doyenne of Macanese cuisine, to carry on his mother’s recipes and legacy. 

Among the city’s upscale Portuguese restaurants , Mesa , helmed by fashionable Lisbon chef José Avillez, is the hotspot du jour, although the Tromba Rija at the Macau Tower is equally popular. But you don’t need to spend a lot to eat well. Try the dumplings at Chong Shing – a famed, Michelin-rated budget eatery – or wander the stalls at the Mercado de São Domingos, where pork chop buns and bowls of noodles can be enjoyed for less than MOP$30. 

Feel like something to wash it down with? The newly opened Ginja do Senado , located just off the Largo do Senado, serves the deceptively potent Portuguese cherry liqueur that it’s named after. 

Where to stay in Macao 

Go large on a duplex Skyview Villa at the Four Seasons Hotel Macao Cotai Strip and behold the surreal magnificence of the Cotai Strip from your private plunge pool. Or try to get one of the 14 David Beckham-designed suites at the brand-new The Londoner Macao – but bear in mind, they’re officially by invitation only. Lovers of old-school luxe will feel at home at the Artyzen Grand Lapa Macau , where every room pays tribute to its Sino-Portuguese heritage, with exclusive art pieces by Carlos Marreiros which depict scenes of Macao’s past and present. 

Get there 

Coaches, ferries and helicopters connect you to Macao from Hong Kong International Airport or the city centre.