Its perennial allure is undeniable. Surrounded by mystic scenery and ancient charm, the lake welcomes millions. One could easily spend an entire day traversing the entire 15km loop, getting lost in the pagodas, historic temples and ethereal gardens dotting its perimeter.

Yet Hangzhou’s allure extends beyond West Lake. Once lauded by Marco Polo as “the most splendid city in the world”, the capital of Zhejiang Province has emerged as a modern tech hub and cultural hotspot, last year both hosting the Asian Games and seeing the launch of its inaugural Michelin Guide.

With the city’s star rising, I wonder if West Lake deserves all the attention. I ask a friend who was born and raised here: what’s the best spot in the city?

“West Lake,” she replies without hesitation. “It’s really peaceful at night.”

As a three-year transplant to the city, you could call me a sceptic. I’ve visited West Lake dozens of times, from many vantage points. For me, the real draw of the city lies in the lush hills and verdant valleys surrounding its pièce de resistance. To make up my mind, I plan a staycation to track down the city’s hidden gems.