Why the Chinese Mainland is the new epicentre of whisky making

Over 500 years ago, when Friar John Cor was granted malt “to make aqua vitae” in Scotland – the earliest known record of whisky distillation – few could have imagined that, by the next millennium, this “water of life” would have taken on a new vitality in the East.

Today, the Chinese Mainland is home to more than 50 whisky distilleries – and its whisky market has seen its most rapid growth in the past decade, with domestic production rising in step. “Distillers here enjoy greater creative freedom, incorporating Chinese elements such as local grains and ageing in unique Chinese wood or yellow wine casks, resulting in a distinctive character,” says Cecilia Wong, president of the Hong Kong Wine and Spirits Writers Association.

It’s something that must be seen firsthand to be fully appreciated. Among the dense forests and cloud-covered peaks of rural Sichuan, The Chuan Malt Whisky Distillery sits at the foot of the majestic Mount Emei. Source of some of the best Chinese whisky, the distillery is our first stop on a tour of the region’s amber spirits, and we’re eager to uncover the stories behind each one.

Backed by Pernod Ricard, one of the world’s largest spirits producers, The Chuan combines world-class whisky craftsmanship with the natural beauty and spiritual allure of Mount Emei, creating an enchanting, bucket list destination for whisky connoisseurs.

After a two-hour drive from Chengdu, the sight of a stunning glass building surrounded by greenery tells us we’ve arrived. The facility, designed by Neri&Hu , resembles an art installation in this rugged setting – an encounter between modern minimalism and ancient natural splendour.

Here, visitors can learn how barley transforms into liquid gold. You’ll breathe in the tangy aromas of fermentation and feel the texture of oak barrels crafted from Chinese Danling. The slow growth and limited yield of these trees mean each barrel is treated like a work of art, and the wood’s natural compounds imbue the whisky with a uniquely Eastern character.

The proof, of course, is in the tasting. Upon our first sip, we immediately notice the distinctiveness of Chinese whisky: beyond its balanced and gentle flavours, it carries an intangible quality – a sense of tranquillity. The sandalwood and dried tangerine peel notes imparted by the Danling barrels are unique in their elegant fragrance.

Later, at onsite fine dining restaurant The Yan, we enjoy a special pairing of Sichuan cuisine and whisky. The chefs here deeply understand the flavour dimensions of both. When a plate of guaiwei, or “strange flavour”, yak shoulder meets the layered flavours of The Chuan whisky , the balance is stunning. Then, when paired with the mild heat of Danling barrel-smoked Sichuan peppercorn squab (baby pigeon), the resulting taste is a true revelation.

Expanding horizons

In neighbouring Yunnan province, in the highlands of Eryuan County, a new whisky venture is underway. Global spirits giant Diageo has chosen this region of exquisite natural beauty as the site for its YunTuo Whisky Distillery, another. There’s a sense of mystery around the first batch: production only began last November, which means there’ll be a wait to try the first bottle, but there’s already much anticipation. It’s thrilling to consider the prospect of a whisky distilled at an altitude of 2,100 metres, using spring water sourced from Erhai Lake and aged in Yunnan oak.

The brand plans to eventually open YunTuo to visitors. When it does, guests can look forward to being greeted by a 29-metre-tall tower composed of 1,000 oak casks from renowned distilleries worldwide – both a tribute to whisky’s proud heritage and a mark of its bold future. It’s this blend of wisdom and innovation that makes the daring of Chinese whisky brands so exciting to witness.

Getting there

From Chengdu, it’s approximately a two-hour drive to The Chuan Malt Whisky Distillery. Alternatively, take the high-speed train to Emeishan Station, then a taxi ride of about 20 minutes. The distillery offers a range of visitor experiences, with tickets starting from CN¥488. Book in advance via The Chuan’s WeChat channel or find The Chuan Malt Whisky Distillery Emeishan on trip.com .

The best bars for whisky tastings

Club Qing, Hong Kong

A city fixture since 2015, Club Qing specialises in rare Japanese and Scotch whiskies. Founder Aaron Chan is a renowned collector, and spirits usually only seen in auction catalogues are available here by the glass, affording unique tasting opportunities. 

Ad Astra by Skyward, Shanghai

The flagship bar of homegrown brand Skyward Distillery, Ad Astra has flourished since opening in August 2024. In a handsome setting inspired by the night sky, patrons can sample an extensive collection of discontinued and aged whiskies.

183, Fumin Road, Jing’an District

Howard Cai Select, Guangzhou

At Howard Cai Select , you can taste 30-year-old Macallan sherry oak whiskies and drinks from niche distilleries like Glen Moray and Blair Athol. They’re all hand-picked for their quality and authenticity by celebrated whisky connoisseur Howard Cai.