Complete guide to Chungking Mansions

Depending on who you speak to, Chungking Mansions is either a place to avoid or a real gem in a sea of multinational chain stores that dominate Tsim Sha Tsui. 

The sprawling complex’s divisive reputation among locals owes much to the colourful and at times seedy past of the labyrinthine 17-storey building complex that opened on Nathan Road in 1961. At that time, Chungking Mansions was the tallest building in Tsim Sha Tsui and represented a bold new type of residential living in the city.

In its early years, it was packed with shops and restaurants, and was hailed as a cutting-edge development. By the 1970s, however, poor building management and neglect led to Chungking Mansions becoming a refuge for questionable businesses and even more questionable characters – and the building’s notorious reputation was born.

Even so, Chungking Mansions became a bustling haven for newcomers to Hong Kong. The building has always served as an unofficial hub for immigrants seeking their fortune, as well as backpackers looking for budget-friendly hotels. With the newcomers came a rich tapestry of cultures, languages and cuisines, making Chungking Mansions a melting pot for more adventurous tourists and curious locals.

By the 1990s, and with the installation of security cameras, Chungking Mansions had shed much of its nefarious image. Visitor numbers spiked after it appeared in director Wong Kar-wai’s 1994 classic Chungking Express, and the building had something of a renaissance, wooing film fans and foodies alike.

Today, in a city strewn with mega-malls, luxury hotels and apartments, the chaotic Chungking Mansions stands out as something of an anachronism, but its idiosyncratic charm makes it one of the most interesting places in Hong Kong.

How to get to Chungking Mansions

Chungking Mansions is located on the busy thoroughfare of Nathan Road, not far from several exits from the Tsim Sha Tsui and East Tsim Sha Tsui MTR stations and across the road from the towering Isquare mall. To the south are the plush environs of The Peninsula hotel and the tourist hotspots on the waterfront, including the Star Ferry (which brings you to Central and Wan Chai on Hong Kong Island), the Cultural Centre and the revamped Tsim Sha Tsui Promenade; to the north is Kowloon Park.

The main entrance is at 36–44 Nathan Road, where you’ll be greeted by people touting the building’s restaurants, shops and tailors, and one or two peddling the odd fake luxury bag or watch. Chungking Mansions consists of five connected blocks, each with its own life on the ground floor. The first two floors house shops and restaurants, while the upper floors contain hotels and apartments.

Where to eat

The massive complex is home to some of the best and closest to authentic international cuisine found in Hong Kong. CNN’s Parts Unknown, hosted by the late Anthony Bourdain, was effusive in praising its vibrant food culture, as are many local foodies. The standout is Sher-E-Punjab, a Nepalese and Indian restaurant that’s open till midnight and is known for its sizeable portions.

Other popular options include The Delhi Club , Khyber Pass Mess Club and Turkish kebab house Bismillah. Chungking Mansions also houses some of the best halal food in Hong Kong, including Pakeeza Food Restaurant for Pakistani dishes like chicken haleem and chapli kebab.  

A few restaurants in Chungking Mansions, particularly the African dining spots, are unnamed as they cater more to regulars and residents. This might put off newbies, but they’re worth a visit if you’re in the mood for a new discovery.

What to buy

Travellers can find everything from currency exchanges, mobile phones, international phone cards and all manner of gadgets and accessories – but you can also pick up unique trinkets, a quick feed and more. In the Indian shops, you’ll find henna, spices and definitely-not-good-for-you snacks and sweets, as well as fabrics and ceremonial dresses. Similarly, the African shops offer products from back home.

This story was originally published in November 2019 and updated in May 2025.