The traditional image of Suzhou is one of an introspective scholar’s garden: quiet, meditative and serene. The contemporary image is a fundamental reconfiguration: a new relationship between Suzhou’s metropolitan energy and its natural topography. That intimate dialogue between nature and city is perhaps best expressed at Lion Mountain Park, a regenerated landscape in the High-Tech District, west of the city’s ancient moat.
At the centre of the transformation is the mighty Lion Mountain itself, which resembles the crouching lion depicted on maps and in scroll paintings since the 13th century. For much of the past few decades, an amusement park occupied the mountain’s base. Popular with a generation of children, it nevertheless disrupted the natural terrain and encroached on the waterways.
Credit: designed by TLS©Xi Chen
Credit: designed by TLS©Xi Chen
Credit: designed by TLS©Xi Chen
When the city relocated the old fairground, an ambitious vision for Lion Mountain emerged – one that sought to restore the site’s natural balance and harmony and recast it as a pioneering cultural hub.
The redesign
“We designed the entrance so that when you emerge from the subway, you feel as if you’ve stepped into the depths of the mountain,” says Fan Wei, one of the lead landscape architects from TLS Landscape Architecture, the firm behind the redesign. “It’s an artificial valley designed around the traditional concept of restraining a view before revealing it. First, you see the peak, then it vanishes as you enter the valley, and finally, it opens dramatically into a sweeping view of the lake.”
From this opening, a circular road wraps around the entire park, inspired by famous scrolls from the Ming and Qing dynasties depicting prosperous cities. The effect is akin to unfolding a landscape scroll, bending it into a continuous loop and draping it over the mountain and lake. Inside the ring lies nature; beyond it, the bustling city.
As visitors follow the loop, the park feels grown rather than imposed. The design allows natural rock formations to interrupt paved paths and favours planting that blends into the native terrain. “We didn’t want a sterile, over-manicured park,” Fan says. “We also used a lot of perennial, self-sustaining grasses for the paths. We fought for a bit of wildness, a landscape that shifts dramatically with the seasons and feels alive.”
This philosophy extends to the remnants of the amusement park. The skeletons of abandoned rollercoaster tracks and old train lines have been retained, slowly reclaimed by climbing vines, wildflowers and overhanging trees. The steel structures now read as poetic tributes to the park’s past life.
Arts and culture hub
While the western half of the park remains an ecological sanctuary, the eastern flank has transitioned to a cultural hub. Situated along the waterfront are three major institutions: the Suzhou Grand Theatre, the Suzhou Science and Technology Museum, and the Suzhou Museum West. These are linked together by pockets of greenery and small gardens, drawing inspiration from the water-worn holes in the scholars’ rocks found in Lake Taihu.
Designed by the firm gmp Architekten, the 10 interlocking cubes that form the Suzhou Museum West echo the region’s traditional alleys and lanes, offering a grander take on IM Pei’s iconic Suzhou Museum in the city centre. Inside, visitors trace the city’s evolution from the Palaeolithic period to the 1911 Revolution through thousands of artefacts on the ground floor. The narrative then shifts to the refined world of Suzhou-style craftsmanship, including jade carving, silk embroidery and lacquerware.
Credit: designed by TLS©Xi Chen
Nature trails
To truly appreciate the full landscape, a hike up Lion Mountain is in order. The northern route offers a gentle ascent along the ridgeline, echoing the steps of the Tang-dynasty poet Bai Juyi. The descent along the southern route provides a sharp contrast: a steep path that rewards hikers with intimate encounters with the mountain’s dramatic rock faces.
At the summit, a striking panorama reveals the shimmering lake and the distant towers of the old city. As wind rustles through the pines, the muffled voices of school announcements and park broadcasts drift up from below, a reminder that this wilderness exists firmly in the beating heart of a modern city. The success of Lion Mountain Park lies in its refusal to wall off nature from the surrounding community. Throughout the day, walkers and joggers track the mountain’s edge. And as afternoon fades into evening, the park’s paved plazas transform into a theatre of local life. Amphitheatres host local football matches, while weekends see the lakefront light up with artisan fairs and craft beer stalls.
Standing by the expanded lake at dusk, you can watch dozens of kayaks and small boats rippling across the water, their tracks catching the golden-hour light.
Credit: Hotel Indigo Suzhou Grand Canal
Where to stay and what to eat in Suzhou
The serene Banyan Tree Suzhou Shishan and its contemporary sister property, Angsana Suzhou Shishan , sit at the foot of the mountain. A short drive away, Hotel Indigo Suzhou Grand Canal provides a stylish alternative that overlooks the district’s historic waterways.
For a comforting taste, residents and visitors alike flock to Gu Su Qiao , a shop that serves traditional Suzhou noodles known for their springy texture and seasonal toppings. For an elevated experience, Rong Zhuang by the acclaimed Xin Rong Ji group offers seafood-forward Taizhou cuisine. Request a window table – you’ll be able to see the illuminated peak of Lion Mountain, framed by the forest canopy.
How to get to Lion Mountain
From the old city centre, take a taxi or ride Subway Line 1 to Shishan Road Station, using Exit 8 for the valley entrance.