A visitor’s guide to Hong Kong’s cooked food centres

Hong Kong’s cooked food centres are veritable treasure troves, combining restaurants that serve beloved regional and global dishes with stalls that sell everything from fresh produce to clothing.

However, these bustling, multi-storey buildings can be a bit intimidating for newcomers. Figuring out which floor to head to, which shop to patronise, where to sit, and how to order takes some time, but persevere and you’ll be rewarded with  freshly caught seafood and comforting cha chaan teng grub. Our handy guide is here to show you how. 

Kowloon City Market and Cooked Food Centre

While Kowloon City is best known for its exciting Thai food scene, there’s more to explore here. The district’s cooked food centre is located on the third floor of the Kowloon City Municipal Services Building, an airy space where sunlight streams in through a glass-panelled roof. Lok Yuen’s shop is near the entrance – look out for a silver sign above the counter or an adorable cat snoozing in a box. The eatery’s cha chaan teng fare is the ultimate way to kick off your morning. Think tender satay beef noodles in a thick, peanutty broth, or decadent deep-fried French toast drenched in butter and condensed milk, customised with your choice of filling – options include Ovaltine, Lotus Biscoff, satay beef and pork floss. 

If you’re visiting the centre at night, warm your belly with a bowl of hot pot. While it’s possible to find every conceivable variation of hot pot in Hong Kong, Ma Chai stands out thanks to its rich satay soup base, which can be enjoyed with toppings like hand-cut beef, deep-fried fish skin and Demae Iccho instant noodles – perfect for soaking up all of that flavourful broth.

Sheung Wan Market and Cooked Food Centre

This spacious centre on Queen’s Road is home to 20 cooked food stalls featuring a mix of local, regional and international cuisine. Most popular among them is Shui Kee Coffee, a classic no-frills cha chaan teng where every item has earned its spot on the small, selective menu. While Hong Kong-style French toast is usually deep-fried, here it’s shallow-fried, allowing the bread to retain more of its doughy texture as well as the subtle colour and fragrance of its egg wash. In other words, it’s a must-order.  

So, too, is the corned beef and egg sesame bun. Simple yet satisfying, it’s perfect for a quick lunch. For a taste of nostalgia, wash it down with milk tea served chilled in a glass bottle. As true connoisseurs will know, this is the optimum way to drink milk tea so that the tea doesn’t get diluted by ice, ensuring silky smooth sweetness ’til the very last sip.  

Bowrington Road Market and Cooked Food Centre

This cooked food centre gets top marks for convenience, with a location between the lively commercial districts of Wan Chai and Causeway Bay, and an assortment of eateries that operate all day long. Open until 2am, Wing Kee Restaurant is great for late-night bites after a long day of exploring. A quintessential dai pai dong, its dishes showcase the wok hei and heartiness of Cantonese cuisine. You’ll find an abundance of meat, seafood and vegetable options that are ideal for sharing. Some of our favourites include the deep-fried salt and pepper squid, spicy aubergine with minced pork and salted fish, and braised baby back ribs in black vinegar sauce.  

Bowrington Road is also the place to go for classic halal Asian fare; Wai Kee has long been delighting diners with its signature halal dishes. Visitors eager to try siu mei in Hong Kong should order the roast duck, which boasts crispy skin and succulent meat. Meanwhile, fans of Indian food won’t be able to resist Wai Kee’s spicy, fragrant beef and mutton curries.

Ap Lei Chau Market and Cooked Food Centre

Once a small fishing village, the laid-back district of Ap Lei Chau remains the go-to spot in Hong Kong for seafood lovers. Peruse rows of seafood stalls selling fresh catches on the bottom level of the Ap Lei Chau Market , then head up to the first floor where you can ask the chefs at Chan Sun Kee to prepare your pick in a range of styles. This popular eatery has won the praise of many, including Hong Kong-born chef Lucas Sin, who recommends the steamed humpback grouper or sole, topped with scallion, hot oil and soy sauce. Other standouts are the steamed abalone with tangerine peel, “fried three treasures” – comprising fried fish skin, fried fish balls and fried wontons – and steamed razor clams served with vermicelli and garlic.  

Queen Street Cooked Food Market

If, by now, you think you know what to expect from a cooked food market, ABC Kitchen at the recently renovated Queen Street Cooked Food Market will have you thinking again. Its elegant European fare wouldn't be out of place at a high-end restaurant – though we might actually prefer the lively, relaxed ambience here. The menu changes from time to time, but a few longstanding offerings include pan-seared foie gras, fresh oysters, roasted suckling pig, duck confit, pavlova and souffle – all of which are divine.  

You'll find the spot by looking out for ABC Kitchen’s iconic red-and-white checked tablecloths, or by listening out for the jovial chatter of its waiters. An added perk: ABC Kitchen doesn’t charge a corkage fee, so feel free to bring your own bottle to celebrate special occasions.