餐飲業者Pearlyn Lee的巴黎美食指南

The Hood創辦人分享巴黎精選食府,細味花都窩心美饌
A lively street scene in Paris at dusk featuring outdoor seating areas of cafes and restaurants on both sides of a cobblestone road.
Credit: ©Marco Bottigelli/Getty Images
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新加坡餐飲創業家Pearlyn Lee十年前在巴黎開設東南亞小餐館The Hood 時,宗旨簡單直接︰將雞飯和越式法包融入巴黎人日常生活。自此,餐廳漸成區內聚餐好去處,吸引城中東南亞移民,以及為窩心美食和交誼活動而來的其他居民。Lee亦經營越式法包及亞洲版甜甜圈概念店Nonette,與The Hood僅一街之隔。 

Pearlyn Lee standing with arms crossed against a stone wall and dark green door, wearing a denim jacket over a white top.

Credit: Pearlyn Lee

A café storefront in Paris with large glass windows and a brown awning, with people standing or sitting on chairs outside.

Credit: Pearlyn Lee

Lee工餘時愛到右岸第10區和第11區閒逛,那裡有她鍾情的「巴黎真貌」,亦即同事們下班後流連或三五知己周末相聚的好去處,遠離遊客區陷阱。區內沒有為特別場合專程到訪的餐廳或名店,取而代之的是溫馨小餐館、咖啡店、氣氛輕鬆的亞洲食肆、葡萄酒吧和烘焙店。 

Lee說︰「經營這些小店的東主對社區、鄰里和熟客瞭若指掌。最吸引我的食府,往往是尊重廚藝,懂得駕馭多重文化身份,而且不拘泥於形式或只懂炫技。這些地方才能吸引回頭客。」 

以下是Pearlyn Lee的巴黎美食指南。 

Le Cornichon’s retro-style interior featuring green velvet banquette seating along a wall with rectangular mirrors and a red decorative border, as well as black chairs, small square tables, ceiling fans, and a patterned tile floor.

Credit: Pearlyn Lee

Façade of Le Cornichon featuring red awnings, a signboard with the restaurant name in green, cream-coloured walls, and wicker chairs and small tables on both sides of the entrance.

Credit: Pearlyn Lee

A dish served on a scallop shell placed on a white plate with green trim at Le Cornichon, with a fork and spoon to the right of the plate.

Credit: Pearlyn Lee

Le Cornichon 

Le Cornichon 裝潢休閒型格,綠色絨布長櫈、鉻金屬椅及一台彈珠機,營造出緊扣社區脈動的咖啡館氛圍。大廚Bertrand Chauveau炮製的足料菜式破格創新,一方面秉持法式小餐館傳統,一方面在採購食材和烹調上盡顯高級餐飲功架。咖啡館的自在氣氛和水準穩定的味道備受熟客青睞。Lee表示︰「大愛其午餐菜單和選擇豐富的自然酒,牛脂炸薯條更是令人垂涎三尺。」

Three scoops of ice cream from Folderol, served in a silver dessert dish.

Credit: Pearlyn Lee

A glass panel menu in Folderol, listing various ice cream flavours in white handwritten text.

Credit: Pearlyn Lee

Le Rigmarole及Folderol

Le Rigmarole 由夫妻檔Jessica Yang與Robert Compagnon主理,其創新風格融會法式烹調技巧和環球風味,在全球50最佳發現餐廳 榜上有名。食店只設午市,12道菜嚐味菜單網羅各式融合風味,包括以日本備長炭烤製的串燒。

Lee亦推介隔壁的姊姊店Folderol ,這間玩味十足的雪糕葡萄酒吧「下午4時開店,一位難求,建議儘早到訪。」

A dish from Le Verre Vole featuring slices of meat garnished with green herbs, served on a black plate on a marble tabletop with a wooden edge.

Credit: Pearlyn Lee

A scallop shell with a raw scallop placed in its centre from Le Verre Vole, resting on a marble tabletop with a wooden edge.

Credit: Pearlyn Lee

Le Verre Vole 

作為巴黎自然酒的運動先驅,Le Verre Vole 自2000年啟業以來,一直引領花都飲食風尚。餐廳位於時尚的巴黎聖馬丁運河區附近,是不折不扣的經典法式小餐館︰狹小但熱鬧,餐桌並排而立,交談聲此起彼落。每日更替的前菜和主菜由新鮮時令農產品主導。Lee表示︰「餐廳悉心烹調法國家常菜,糅合不同文化,譬如以日式高湯提鮮的蛤蜊。美食與自然酒配搭得宜,一切都恰到好處。」為免向隅,建議訂位。

Someone pouring red sauce from a squeeze bottle onto fried chicken in a grey bowl at Reyna.

Credit: Pearlyn Lee

A dish at Reyna with six oysters, each topped with yellow garnish and purple flowers, over a bed of coarse salt on a plate.

Credit: Pearlyn Lee

Reyna 

Reyna 主廚Erica Paredes的烹飪手法出於本能與記憶,取材自她在菲律賓的兒時點滴,以及在澳洲、英國和法國的生活印記。菜式極具個人色彩,透過當造食材與法式風格詮釋東南亞風味,以創意料理帶領食客環遊世界。

這裡的菜式稱不上正宗,但熟悉的味道不變,如菲律賓辣火山炸雞或帶海南雞飯風味的布拉塔芝士。餐廳麻雀雖小,菜單卻不斷演進,呼應Paredes的旅遊經歷和時令食材,以冧酒調製的雞尾酒則為晚上帶來熱絡融洽的氛圍。 

Close-up on pho in a patterned orange bowl from Mam From Hanoi, featuring thinly sliced rare beef, herbs, and noodles in a clear broth.

Credit: Pearlyn Lee

Close-up of golden-brown crispy spring rolls with green leafy garnish in the background from Mam From Hanoi.

Credit: Pearlyn Lee

Mam From Hanoi’s dark green storefront with glass doors, with two versions of their restaurant name, one in red and one that’s illuminated.

Credit: Pearlyn Lee

Mam From Hanoi 

必比登美食推薦餐廳Mam From Hanoi 由一對越南拍檔共同經營,呈奉越北菜餚,取材自二人祖父母的家傳料理。餐廳嚴選法國農產品入饌,菜式貴精不貴多,亮點有豬肉炸春卷(nems)拼盤配上秘製魚露(mam)醬汁,以及熱騰騰的越南河粉,略鹹的正宗越北風味正好促進消化。

A spread at The Hood Paris, with meat skewers on a floral plate in the middle, garnished with sliced red onions, served alongside cucumber slices and a dollop of peanut sauce.

Credit: Pearlyn Lee

An orange plate at The Hood Paris with sliced chicken, oil rice garnished with herbs, cucumber slices, a bowl of soup, and a small divided dish with chilli and ginger sauce.

Credit: Pearlyn Lee

The Hood Paris 

Lee表示︰「說到The Hood Paris和Nonette,我固然帶有私心;但事實是,我幾乎每日在此用餐,深諳這就是我心目中的窩心美食。」

The Hood的菜單上不乏雞飯、沙嗲、斑蘭戚風蛋糕、咖央多士配雞蛋等為人熟悉的新加坡及泛亞經典菜,亦有自家製Dirty Chai(髒髒印度香料奶茶)和水準穩定的絲滑拉茶。 

Close-up of rows of sugar-coated doughnuts filled with green and yellow cream from Nonette.

Credit: Pearlyn Lee

A man wearing a light pink shirt with "ON THE MOVE" and Nonette’s social media handle printed on the back, holding a banh mi in the air, in front of a classic building with ornate balconies and a French flag.

Credit: Pearlyn Lee

另一邊廂,休閒輕食店Nonette 則主打融入法式精髓的足料越式法包,例如自製火腿和取代蛋黃醬的法國牛油;甜甜圈則玩轉亞洲風味,內餡有咖央和肉鬆等口味。正如Lee所說︰「輕食方便外帶,讓你漫遊巴黎或到公園野餐,盡享花都閒情。」

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