The way of the wok: inside Wendy’s Wok World

In a Cantonese kitchen, the line cook churns through dishes at a blinding speed. In one hand, a cast-iron wok, 45cm in diameter and 2kg in weight.

In the other, a spatula that keeps food moving without burning, taking on the wok hei – the “breath” of the wok that makes Cantonese food unique. It requires not only skill but also considerable strength: one often-cited reason that Hong Kong’s kitchens have traditionally been a male domain.

But for Sam Lui, that’s not a limitation: just a challenge. Lui runs Wendy’s Wok World : part-passion project, part-concept artwork, in which her alter ego Wendy delves into the art and techniques of wok cooking. Since 2019, she’s based herself out of the family soy sauce factory in Sheung Shui, turning it into a studio in which she works on her skills, documents her progress on social media, and hosts meals for friends and the select few. With Hong Kong’s culinary scene witnessing a resurgence of interest in traditional Cantonese cuisine, Lui’s project has earned attention from top food critics and chefs alike.

Kung fu kitchen

With a philosophy degree from Columbia University and an inclination to explore the abstract, Lui has a distinctive take on the art of wok cooking. 

“To me, wok cooking epitomises the essence of ‘purity’ as a concept,” she explains. 

There’s a binary aspect to “purity” – it is, or it isn’t. For Lui, the wok is a medium to explore that idea. Wok cooking is a traditional skill, governed by fixed rules and principles. The precision it demands leaves no room for error. It takes mastery of heat, precision and speed to attain culinary perfection – purity, you might say.

Lui compares her approach to the kung fu movies she watched as a child. For martial artists, it’s not about showing off with moves: it’s about internalising the discipline; finding balance; developing a philosophy. “Wok cooking and martial arts share these concepts. To make a great wok dish, you must adhere to all these principles. It’s about internalising and practicing them, aiming to reach perfection in the split second of action, much like kung fu.”

Lui doesn’t regard herself – or Wendy – as a professional chef. But she’s been apprenticed to some of the best, including stints with highly respected Cantonese restaurants Ho Lee Fook and Kin’s Kitchen . Nonetheless, she emphasises her own sky-high standards and credits her father as her key culinary advisor. “Both my parents are foodies and our family loves to seek out delicious meals together. My dad knows a lot about wok-fried dishes; he can tell the quality of a dish with a single bite. When I’m practising, his insights push me to improve."

A never-ending journey

While the exclusive Wendy’s Wok World dinners remain closed to the public, in recent years Lui has been bringing her project to a wider audience. That includes co-hosting exclusive dinners with venerable restaurant Ser Wong Fun and plant-based meat brand OmniFoods in Hong Kong, as well as pop-up events in Bangkok and New York in partnership with local arts organisations.

“It’s intriguing how diverse audiences interpret my projects,” she says. “In Hong Kong, most gravitate towards the intricacies of the wok techniques; overseas, people are generally more interested in my philosophical approach to the art of wok cooking.”

They’re clearly both vital ingredients – and like all wok-fried dishes, it all comes together as part of a bigger whole. “Many dishes are easy to learn but difficult to master,” says Lui. “Take beef hor fun: making a passable version isn’t difficult, but achieving excellence is a totally different challenge. You have to impart a fragrance to the noodles without breaking them, ensure the noodles are soft and the beef remains tender, all while maintaining the crispness of the vegetables. Each ingredient must be stir-fried, every bite imbued with wok hei.”

In Wendy’s Wok World, every dish is a martial arts technique. There’s always more to learn. A greater purity. A higher standard to reach.

Three wok recipes to try

Want to test the calibre of a chef? Order these three classic wok dishes.

1) Beef hor fun

Exemplifying the art of wok hei, this dish demands the precise searing of flat noodles at high temperatures, followed by the seamless addition of beef and vegetables to preserve their individual textures.

2) Osmanthus egg with mock shark fin and crab meat

The challenge lies in maintaining meticulous control over the egg’s texture through precise cooking, combined with crab meat and spring onions to create a refined flavour profile.

3) Sugar-coated taro

A classic “kung fu” dish. Taro is fried at a low temperature after being artfully coated in sugar, creating a crispy exterior that conceals a tender core.