Exploring the Li River, the Chinese Mainland’s serene escape

The serene beauty of Guangxi is best epitomised by the dramatic karsts of Yangshuo, a scene famously immortalised on the Chinese Mainland’s 20 yuan note, where the Li River cuts across the region.

There are many ways to experience this fabled landscape. Board a southbound ​​cruise ship  from the regional hub of Guilin city and let the beauty gradually unfold around you as you float through small villages such as Yangdi and Xingping. Alternatively, go straight to Yangshuo County, where the most beautiful landscapes await, and ride on a powered bamboo raft, marvelling at the natural wonder of the spiking rock formations reflected in the tranquil waters of the Li River. 

Recalling the calm of a traditional brush painting, Yangshuo’s magical scenery has drawn enthralled poets and painters for generations. With its growing popularity comes plentiful accommodation and dining options and modern Yangshuo comes alive after dark, allowing visitors to enjoy serene days and vibrant nights. Plan a weekend escape to soak up the sublime natural beauty of this rustic town. 

Experiencing a boat cruise on the Li River

On a sunny autumn day, I set sail on the Li River aboard a bamboo raft, gliding past sights such as Mural Hill, also known as Fresco Hill, a unique rock formation said to resemble nine galloping horses. “Try and spot them all,” instructs our seasoned guide, before directing our attention to Dolphin Peak. “The secret to enjoying Li River is to let your imagination run wild,” he advises, as the crew skilfully manoeuvre the vessel.

Further downstream, the sight of a buffalo lazily bathing catches my eye, its body half submerged in the river, an egret perched gracefully on its back. In the distance, children splash in the water while women wash clothes – a timeless scene that has left an indelible mark on my mind.

At 4am the following morning, I journey to the foot of Xianggong Mountain on the river’s west bank, joining a swarm of hikers and photographers in the foothills. Above, rolling mountains stretch towards the horizon, illuminated by a starry sky. As I hike up to the observation deck, the first beam of sunlight shoots through the hazy veil of drifting clouds, bathing the undulating terrain in gold – an ethereal vista that is mesmersing to behold. 

I descend onto Yulong River, the largest tributary of Li River, and board a bamboo raft. It’s a bumpy course ahead, but the scenery – with calming, quaint villages and lush paddies lining both banks – is pure serenity. To drink in the natural beauty with fewer distractions, opt for a leisurely walk or bike ride along the banks. 

Exploring the ancient towns of Yangshuo County

Yangshuo is also home to several historic sites, including the riverside town of Fuli, widely known as a cradle of Chinese fan painting. Here, skilled painters hone their craft in old Qing dynasty houses, on the cobbled streets behind the town’s memorial arch. This is naturally the best place to buy your own folding fan, decorated with Guilin landscape paintings, or to try your hand at fan painting under the guidance of master artisans.

Where to stay in Yangshuo 

Against this picturesque landscape sits Banyan Tree Yangshuo . The property blends influences from local Hui-style architecture across its 141 suites and villas, where quaint wooden furniture and ink paintings set the tone of quiet luxury. The outdoor terrace affords sweeping views of the Li River and karst peaks, while experiences such as mountaineering and rafting, or fan painting and Chinese flower ball making, can be booked on-site. Wind down with one of Banyan Tree’s spa treatments or join wellbeing activities to restore harmony.

Visiting Yangshuo? Here’s what you need to know

Peak tourist season runs from April to November, with November being the best time to visit the region, as the autumnal fragrance of osmanthus fills the air and golden petals float on the Li River. Taxis are not popular in Yangshuo; instead, ride-hailing platforms such as Didi or car rental are recommended.