Johannesburg, unlike Rome, was built in a day. The discovery of gold on farmlands in 1886 led to a rush for riches and created a city that has never lost its reputation as a boisterous prospecting town where people live hard and fast and make things happen. Situated at altitude in the Gauteng province – the heart of the country – the city pumps out a beat for every significant sector in the economy: from mining to music to media.
Motherland Coffee Shop
Credit: Getty Images
Ever since the Johannesburg Stock Exchange moved from the gritty old downtown to plush Sandton – together with many captains of industry and the head offices of major companies – this steel-and-glass suburb has been synonymous with sealing deals. But lately, areas like Rosebank and Melrose Arch have become their own centres of enterprise.
In the morning, the Motherland Coffee Shop in Parktown North is convenient for a caffeine jolt if you are staying in Rosebank or Westcliff. It’s a chain with excellent coffee, but you’re really there for the people-spotting: the country’s first citizen, President Cyril Ramaphosa, is known to pop in for a take-away cuppa after one of his morning walks at nearby Zoo Lake Park. The park itself is also a great place for exercise.
The Potluck Club
The Potluck Club
Whether at low-key shisa nyamas (meaning “hot meat”, barbecue outlets) or an expensive steakhouse, most business in South Africa is concluded over slabs of meat, usually cow. South African beef is excellent, and The Grillhouse , with branches in Melrose Arch, Sandton and Rosebank is a good option. For some of the best meat, cocktails and views in Johannesburg, however, head to Marble Restaurant at the hip new Keyes Art Mile in Rosebank. Chef David Higgs and his crew describe themselves as “meat and fire enthusiasts”, and they do not disappoint with food perfectly cooked on a wood-fired grill.
For more adventurous palates, try The Potluck Club in Rosebank where one of South Africa’s most innovative chefs, Luke Dale-Roberts, has opened a branch of his famous Cape Town eatery. There you can dine on delicious smoked fillet and café au lait; lobster in a soft-shell taco with chipotle glaze and radish; and kudu carpaccio with orange soy, yuzu dressing, and crispy charred carrots.
Sandton has a range of exclusive and plush hotels, such as the Sandton Sun . In Rosebank, 54 on Bath is a great boutique hotel close to the Rosebank Mall, Keyes Art Mile and The Goodman Gallery, with an excellent champagne bar. The Four Seasons Hotel The Westcliff is a grand old dame of a hotel and one of the best sundowner cocktail spots in the city. It has expansive views of Johannesburg’s greener suburbs, with Johannesburg Zoo in the foreground and Midrand on the horizon. Their martinis are exceptional, too..
The Johannesburg Art Gallery
Johannesburg? Joburg? Jozi? Egoli? Johannesburg has many names, and how you refer to it marks you out.
“Johannesburg” is long and formal. You’re boring. “Jozi” was the name that emerged in the mid-’90s with a flourishing black urban youth culture, especially expressed through music like kwaito and hip hop. If you use it now, it says you are desperate to belong. “Egoli” means “place of gold” and was first used by mineworkers and migrant labourers from rural areas. It still is, so it marks you out as a country bumpkin. Just stick with “Joburg”: short and sweet.
Joburgers work and party harder than the rest of the country, and the city remains irrepressible. Yet despite the end of apartheid almost 30 years ago, South Africa’s urban areas remain largely segregated by class and race. Most tourist- and business-friendly spaces are safe and usually patrolled by private security companies.
Soweto is home to several important events and people in South Africa’s troubled history. A visit could include the Mandela House , the home that Nelson Mandela shared with his wife Winnie before he went to prison. The Hector Pieterson Museum , commemorating the 1976 Soweto Uprising, is also close by. There are guided tours of these sites which include traditional meals, food and cultural performances.
Got a whole day to spare? Head down to the old Johannesburg downtown, preferably with a local guide. Visit the venerable Rand Club for lunch or a drink at the counter, where mining magnates have hung out for over a century. The Ethiopian Quarter is a few blocks away from the Rand Club, and the food there is delicious. Johannesburg’s Art Deco buildings defy critics who describe the city as ugly, while a ride to the top of the nearby Carlton Centre, the tallest cement-cast building in Africa, ensures breathtaking views of the city.
The Johannesburg Art Gallery has an excellent collection from South Africa and further abroad, and its curator, Khwezi Gule, is always provocative. Then head up to the country’s Constitutional Court in nearby Braamfontein. It was built from the bricks of the Old Fort prison, which used to house political prisoners on the same site – a metaphor for a country reborn.
Maria McCloy
Media personality and fashion designer Maria McCloy has been creating everything from earrings to Basotho bomber jackets and Shweshwe fabric brogues. Perfect as gifts or to perk up any look, her African culture-inspired collection can be browsed at House of Nala in Sandton City, or on her Instagram account, @mariamccloy .
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