Eat the city: Chengdu

Mapo tofu, kung pao chicken and other such bold, fiery dishes immediately transport you to Chengdu, the epicentre of Sichuan cuisine. The southwestern Chinese metropolis was named Unesco’s City of Gastronomy in 2010, acknowledging its rich culinary culture and heritage as well as its efforts in developing and preserving these traditions. From food stalls specialising in one signature spicy Sichuan item to Michelin-starred restaurants serving elevated classics, this guide helps you explore Chengdu’s bubbling dining scene.

1. Yan Taipo Guokui

Meaning “pot helmet” in Chinese, guokui is a flatbread-like dish with roots in the western provinces of China. These savoury snacks come in a variety of flavours and styles, and Yan Taipo Guokui has been serving this classic for more than two decades. Though there are several shops across town, the one near the Wenshu Monastery is still run by the eponymous granny (pictured above), who dishes up these fresh-from-the-oven treats filled with your choice of beef, pork, bamboo shoots, bean jelly or cold noodles, and then tossed in a blend of spices and oils. Grab some napkins as it may get a little messy, but every bite is worth it.

19 Renmin Zhong Lu Section 3, Qingyang District

2. Rongrong Beida Pugaimian

Noodle dishes best capture the essence of Sichuan flavours, and pugaimian –or “blanket noodles” – stands out as a unique twist on a classic. You’ll find one of the best versions of it at Rongrong. What sets it apart is the chef, who skilfully kneads the dough into a large square blanket roughly the size of your hand, creating the perfect vessel to soak up the flavours of toppings such as tender pork ribs, juicy beef and tangy sour cabbage.

2-4 Jiefang Lu Section 2, Jinniu District

3. Dongzikou Chenshi Liangfen

Bump elbows with the locals and get a taste of everyday life in the city at Dongzikou Chenshi Liangfen, a “fly restaurant” that has sold affordable, top-notch Sichuanese food for decades. Expect a somewhat hectic dining experience, where carts carrying signature liangfen (cold jelly noodles topped with chilli oil), cold chicken topped with a spicy, addictive sauce, chilli flakes and peanuts, and other delicious plates weave through the crowd, as diners haggle with the staff for their favourites before they sell out.

42 Fude Lu, Dongzikou, Jinniu District

4. Sun Popo Mei Wa Tu Huoguo

In Chengdu, hot pot is a cultural institution, and the city has more than 16,000 restaurants serving this wildly popular speciality. Amid the overwhelming number of choices, Sun Popo Mei Wa Tu Huoguo, which has several outlets across town, shines as a longtime favourite. Along with the numbingly spicy broth featuring a plethora of spices and seasonings, rabbit and frog legs are the stars of the show here. However, we’d recommend ordering a range of hearty vegetables like lotus roots and potatoes to help soak up more of the delicious broth.

117-119 Zhaozhongsi Jie, Qingyang District

5. Fu Rong Huang 

Locals flock to Fu Rong Huang for home-style dishes they know and love. From twice-cooked pork to kung pao chicken and mapo tofu, every plate at this one-Michelin-starred eatery is true to its Sichuan roots. Don’t miss the signature snowflake chicken (xuehua jinao), a light, fluffy classic featuring minced chicken that’s been cooked to resemble the texture of silken tofu.

3/F, 66-16, Guanghuacun Jie, Qingyang District

6. Yu Zhi Lan

Two-Michelin-starred private kitchen concept Yu Zhi Lan is where chef-owner Lan Guijun presents a unique, refined version of Sichuan cuisine. Choose from one of the few prix fixe menus, and chef Lan will take you on a multi-course adventure that explores the province’s diverse culinary landscape. While his dishes are based on seasonal, premium ingredients, the signature golden strand noodles (jinsimian) are a beloved staple. Made from scratch from duck egg yolk and dough then cut into strands as thin as hair, the refreshing dish is served in a consommé-like broth.

24-1 Changfa Jie, Qingyang District

7. The Bridge

Situated atop the Anshun Bridge and overlooking the Hejiang Pavilion, The Bridge by Taipei-born chef André Chiang offers an innovative take on Sichuan cuisine. At the Michelin-recommended restaurant, chef Chiang serves both à la carte and tasting menus that celebrate seasonality and the roots of the cuisine. Don’t miss out on the stone pot fish-flavoured bamboo shellfish – an unforgettable dish that dazzles with a secret blend of pickled Sichuan pepper and ginger.

8. Xiang Yuan

Located within the peaceful confines of the Wenshu Monastery, Xiang Yuan offers a vegetarian hot pot buffet on the ground floor and a vegetarian set menu on the upper level. At the latter restaurant, don’t miss the golden soup, made from assorted mushrooms, yellow bell pepper, ginger, pumpkin and garlic. Its spicy, tangy kick ensures you’ll scoop up every last drop. A post-prandial stroll through the monastery grounds and the vibrant local markets nearby is a must.

6 Wenshuyuan Jie, Qingyang District