Kathmandu makes a bold first impression – its streets can seem chaotic and messy upon your arrival, but they conceal a rich tapestry of history, culture and hospitality. With a little patience and planning, navigating Nepal’s capital reveals a charming cityscape which will linger long in your memory.
Dotted with Hindu and Buddhist religious sites, the Kathmandu Valley, which includes the cities of Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur, is a kaleidoscope of the indigenous Newar civilisation and spirituality. Here, men still perform festive dances in deity-inspired costumes and locals seek blessings from the kumari, “living goddess”, a young girl said to be possessed by a Hindu goddess.
Kathmandu’s urban sprawl also reflects its rapid modernisation, with chic restaurants, boutiques and five-star hotels boasting rooftop views of the Himalayas to give your trip a more luxurious lining.
As tourism to Nepal becomes ever more accessible and popular, here’s your guide to exploring and experiencing the Kathmandu Valley.
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The best way to see the Himalayas up close, including Mount Everest, without trekking is to hop on an hour-long mountain sightseeing flight that encircles and gives you great views of the peaks. Both Buddha Air and Yeti Airlines have daily early morning departures. Alternatively, hiking at Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park, on the northern fringe of the city, gets you closer to nature and offers mountain vistas on clear days.
The Asan bazaar comes alive in the mornings with vegetable vendors and breakfast stalls serving chiya, a spiced milk tea, and gwaramari, or fried dough balls. The bustling lanes lead to the Unesco World Heritage Site of Kathmandu Durbar Square, which is lined with pagoda temples and palaces that were rebuilt or renovated after the 2015 earthquake. Here’s where you’ll also see the kumari – if you’re lucky.
Heritage walks are one of the best ways to explore the valley’s culture. Ancient Kathmandu offers walks in Patan that navigate its alleyways, courtyards and stunning palace square. Book by calling tour leader Sandip Maharjan (+977 9801002973). The quieter hill town of Kirtipur is dotted with Hindu and Buddhist temples – join a free walk on Saturdays with heritage expert Alok Tuladhar, who can be contacted at +977 9851012482.
For a more spiritual itinerary, spend an evening in Boudhanath and watch as devotees circle the Buddhist stupa and light butter lamps. The area is also known as Little Tibet, as it is home to many Tibetans who have settled in Nepal. The Hindu temple of Pashupatinath is also a five-minute drive away.
The medieval city of Bhaktapur is less chaotic and quieter than Kathmandu. With its well-preserved heritage houses, temples, pottery squares and the famous snack juju dhau, or “king of yoghurt”, it’s a perfect half-day getaway from the hubbub of Kathmandu city proper.
For a fascinating window into history and culture, head to Patan Museum , which is housed in an old palace courtyard. The Museum of Nepali Art and Taragaon Next are where you can admire contemporary art.
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Aside from the ubiquitous momo, also known as the Nepali dumpling, and daal bhaat, the staple rice set, the restaurant Raithaane serves spins on Nepal’s diverse cuisine, where you can taste dishes from the mountains to the plains.
Newa cuisine, native to Kathmandu’s indigenous culture, is also a must-try. Make your way to the decades-old hole-in-the-wall Honacha in Patan for some snacks, or Sasa: Twa in Kirtipur for a hearty meal.
Krishnarpan offers upscale dining with six to 22-course menus exploring Nepali food. Tusa is another fine dining experience, offering a flavourful tribute to the nation’s rich culinary tradition.
If Asia’s 50 best bars are on your list, Barc ranks 39th and comes with a speakeasy atmosphere and strong cocktails infused with local ingredients. Sam’s Bar in the backpackers’ neighbourhood of Thamel has been a popular spot for casual hangouts and mingling with fellow travellers for over two decades.
Kathmandu has a range of international hotel chains, including Hyatt Regency , Marriott and Hilton . For a more traditional experience, stay at the upscale Dwarika’s , one of Kathmandu’s finest luxury hotels. Swotha and Newa Chen , both century homes-turned-hotels in Patan, are more wallet-friendly options.
If you’d like to park yourself away from Kathmandu, The Nanee , a family-run hotel in Bhaktapur, is an excellent choice.
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The shops in Thamel or boutiques at Baber Mahal Revisited are ideal for souvenir shopping. For “made in Nepal” items, head to The Local Project Nepal , which has two branches, one inside the café Evoke Jhamsikhel and the other inside Le Sherpa Restaurant in Maharajgunj.
The Né Nepal store (flagship located within the International Club, Sanepa) is a good place to get locally made artisanal jewellery.
Dhuku: A Handmade Collective (Narayanhiti Palace Museum North Gate Road) and Mahaguthi (Kupundole, Lalitpur) are one-stop shops for ethically sourced handicrafts, art and products made from Nepali lokta paper.
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Pathao and InDrive are the most popular ride-hailing apps for motorcycles and taxis. Pre-paid taxis departing from arrivals are best for airport transfer.
Sim cards from Nepal Telecom and Ncell are available at the airport.
Most shops accept international debit and credit cards, including Visa, Mastercard and UnionPay, though cash is still widely used.