“It went from somewhere you’d go to for health reasons to somewhere fun where you’d get a great meal,” says Jörg Stindt, the restaurant group’s CFO and co-CEO. “Part of our success is that we attract people who are not vegetarian. They might want to eat less meat – or they just like our food.”

Last year’s Swiss Vegan Awards were dominated by Zurich businesses, highlighting a surge in new businesses and restaurants spanning the world’s cuisines and a new legion of young culinary stars – and establishing the trendy suburb of Sihlfeld, where many of the new eateries are located, as a meat-free mecca of sorts in the city.

Zineb “Zizi” Hattab has three hit venues under her belt, including Dar, a Middle Eastern brunch spot and Cor, a wine and vegan tapas bar and one of the best vegan restaurants in Zurich. But the jewel in her crown is KLE, a tiny neighbourhood dining room whose Michelin star dispels any suggestions that fine dining must feature meat. Diners are presented with wine-paired bites that spotlight unusual ingredients from around the world and deliver complex flavour combinations.

Dishes alternate between angelically light and sumptuously rich: a zingy gazpacho topped with blackberries and fluffy walnut ricotta is followed by a potato millefeuille which, sticky with smoky sauce, recalls a piece of roast pork. A similarly exacting, experimental approach is taken at the nearby Marktküche, where tattooed chef Tobias Hoesli leverages exceptional Swiss terroir with a touch of wizardry, as seen in his cucumber “caviar” with salty foam and smoked carrot curled like a piece of sashimi. No seafood lover would miss fish.

Bianca Legorreta went from posting her completely vegan home bakes on Instagram to founding White Rabbit Bakery, whose egg- and dairy-free confections are sold from her brick-and-mortar boutique, Moon. A counter of gooey plum Danish whirls sit invitingly alongside artisanal Swiss chocolates decorated with alpine flowers, dried figs or candied pecans, and come beautifully packaged for a take-home gift.

Before 2020, there were few options for vegetarians or vegans in Zurich; now there is an ever-growing roster of eateries and endless choices. “That was a pivotal year for veganism in Zurich,” says Legorreta. “We may have been behind other countries, but change came fast as a result of the pandemic. People have generally become more conscious and focused on healthier lifestyles and sustainability. We make our products with the best ingredients possible, which is what Swiss food is about.”