Your neighbourhood guide to Sheung Wan

Sheung Wan’s sloping streets are home to some unlikely neighbours: temples next to casual eateries, modern art galleries beside old steel shutters, Chinese antique stores across from refined European bars and bold murals on crumbling building façades. This neighbourhood on the west side of Hong Kong Island is one of the city’s oldest, and also one of its most diverse; everything you can find across Hong Kong, from dried seafood to relaxed bistros, you’ll find right here in Sheung Wan. 

Need a primer on the must-sees, where to shop and what to eat? Check out our Sheung Wan guide below. 

What to see in Sheung Wan 

If you’re arriving by MTR or bus, your first stop in Sheung Wan should be Wing Lok Street. Also known as Dried Seafood Street, its brightly lit shops contain shelves upon shelves of air-dried fish maw, squid, shrimp, sea cucumber and more. For those not preparing to cook a Cantonese feast, however, the real draws are the shop cats often skulking or snoozing about the premises – so keep your eyes peeled for these elusive yet adorable felines.  

Sheung Wan’s topography is a reflection of Hong Kong Island’s hilly terrain, and scaling Ladder Street – a backroad of seemingly never-ending steps stretching from Queen’s Road to Mid-Levels – is one way to experience it. As you climb, you’ll come across Man Mo Temple on Hollywood Road. Constructed in the mid-1800s, it remains wonderfully preserved and frequented by both residents and travellers seeking blessings. 

Near the temple, you’ll find numerous Chinese antique shops displaying old wooden furniture and dynastic wares, as well as art galleries exhibiting contemporary pieces. Standing amid these establishments is Liang Yi Museum , home to curated collections of antique furniture from the Ming and Qing dynasties, open to visitors by appointment. 

For vibrant street art, peek around the intersections along Tai Ping Shan Street, venture onto Tank Lane and Kau U Fong, and make a stop at Square Street. For a fascinating self-guided walking tour, follow the government-curated Sheung Wan heritage trail , which takes in former historical sites and buildings in the area. 

Where to shop in Sheung Wan 

In Sheung Wan, shops come in all shapes and sizes: buy spices in bulk, nab an “antique” souvenir or treat yourself to a boutique-store indulgence. Yuan Heng Spice Company stocks an array of regional spices as well as ready-made spice packs for recipes like tea-marinated eggs and mulled wine. Around the corner is Upper Lascar Row, aka Cat Street, an outdoor market brimming with both antiques and less-than-antiques, from Chinese ceramics to Bruce Lee memorabilia and replicas of vintage goods.  

Meanwhile, Shiu Shing Hong (Wah Hei Building, 130 Jervois Street) is a tiny shop with a huge presence. It’s common to see long queues of customers eager to buy essential oils, cosmetics and – most popular of all – branded fragrance dupes that can turn your home into the Four Seasons hotel or IFC shopping mall. 

Head to Tai Ping Shan Street to shop indie brands like Nelles Gemmes for healing crystals or Yuan Yuan Tang for aged Chinese tea and brewing workshops, then refresh at hip cafés such as The Station and Koolbeanz , the latter of which organises wine nights and vinyl listening sessions.  

Where to eat and drink in Sheung Wan 

The dining options in this neighbourhood are endless, whether you’re in the mood for cha chaan teng fare, upscale Chinese cuisine, European plates or a well-brewed cuppa. 

To eat well, do as the taxi drivers do. For Kee Restaurant (200 Hollywood Road) sits on a street corner often occupied by taxis and serves a mean fried pork chop with rice and runny egg. The old-school decor and brisk service only add to its character. Meanwhile, Yuk Kin Fast Food features open-air seating next to old banyan trees and dishes out fast-food favourites like pan-fried chicken and pork with fried rice.  

For elevated Chinese cooking, Mora ’s creative cuisine – based around the humble soybean – has earned it a Michelin star. If you’re craving international flavours, Man Mo Dim Sum uses traditional techniques to craft non-traditional dim sum inspired by cuisines from around the world. Alternatively, the Michelin-recognised Racines  offers seasonal multi-course French dining in cosy surroundings. 

In need of a light refreshment? Settle down at Halfway Coffee for a longan honey latte, or grab and go at Espresso Remedy , which has an extensive menu of both coffee-based and non-coffee drinks (including espresso tonics and sesame oat lattes). Petizen is your go-to if you enjoy sipping your drink alongside furry companions as this stylish space doubles as a pet shop. 

If you’d prefer a bar hangout, Blue Supreme has a large selection of beers and wines as well as solid brunch, lunch and dinner menus. Pair a fizzy glass from their constantly updated wild and sour beer menu with a wagyu skirt steak or chicken waffle dish for a light yet satisfying meal.  

A street away, Craftissimo crams an incredible inventory of local and international brews in just a few square feet. The neon lights, wall decals and hand-scribbled labels enhance its playful charm. Finally, Corks makes a great final stop for the day. Partner glasses of wine with sharing cheese platters or desserts like chocolate lava cake and let the conversation flow. Keep an eye out, too, for special events like oyster nights and regular buy-one-get-one-free promotions.