Eat the city: Tel Aviv

Tel Aviv may be known as the “White City” for its abundance of white Bauhaus architecture, but its food culture is a riot of colour, having developed over thousands from the use of superior Mediterranean ingredients and the influence of immigrant populations. No meat? No problem. Tel Aviv has more than 400 certified vegan-friendly restaurants.

Although the city doesn’t currently have any Michelin accolades, things could be about to change. The Israeli Tourism Ministry announced this year that the Michelin Guide will finally start touring Tel Aviv to evaluate whether to sprinkle some stars on the coastal city. Either way, foodies get ready: here are some of the best places to eat in Tel Aviv. 

_Miznon

This casual late-night snack stop is one of the best ways to sample celebrity chef Eyal Shani’s cooking without fighting to snag a seat at his prestigious HaSalon. Miznon, whose name is Hebrew slang for “lunch kiosk,” serves kebab meat, falafel or roasted vegetables in fresh, fluffy pita that’s still steaming when you grab it from the counter. Shani has opened some of the city’s most-hyped eateries, but Miznon remains the accessible favourite for everyone, from starving students to hip grandmas.

Hummus Abu Hassan

In a country that venerates hummus, you’d think there would be a cutthroat competition to be crowned the best maker of the creamy chickpea dish. But Abu Hassan (Ha-Dolin Street 1, Tel Aviv), a traditional hole-in-the-wall spot in Jaffa that opened in 1959, consistently tops almost every list. If you dare, visit at the weekend, when the line snakes around the block and becomes a party in itself. Don’t order just the hummus. Instead, try the “triple dish”, an Abu Hassan invention which combines hummus, masabacha (whole chickpeas in tahini), and ful (slow-roasted broad beans) in garlic and lemon sauce. 

The Old Man and The Sea

For centuries, pilgrims to the Holy Land arrived by water and were greeted at the fishing port by the 1,000-year-old Saint Nicholas Monastery. Though most visitors now arrive via the airport, the old port still functions as it did a millennium ago. Each morning, fishermen chug out to sea and return after sunset with a catch best sampled at one of The Old Man and The Sea ’s outdoor tables. The restaurant is famous for salatim, or salads, a constantly refilled supply of more than 20 vegetarian starters. Pace yourself to ensure you have room for the delicate, fresh-caught white grouper. 

HaBasta

Vegetables are the star of Israeli cuisine, and HaBasta (HaShomer Street 4, Tel Aviv), which means “the stall” in Hebrew, is located just a leek’s throw away from Tel Aviv’s beating heart, the Carmel Market. The menu changes daily based on whatever grabs the attention of chef Alon Amir at the nearby stalls. The emphasis is on simple dishes, like charred okra with preserved lemons or spinach fatayer (savoury hand pies), but seafood gets a special nod, including HaBasta’s famed crab bourekas. 

Mashya

Tel Aviv is more party than pious, but if there was a city-wide religion, it would be weekend brunch. Mashya , located in the hip Mendeli Street Hotel, is one of the best places to experience this ritual. Its contemporary twist on the Israeli breakfast draws from Moroccan and Tunisian influences, and serves some of the city’s best harissa (red chilli paste). Choose a main course, then peruse a buffet honouring the spreads, salads and fresh breads that make Israeli breakfasts legendary. Local artisans hand-make everything from the dishes to the knives, elevating dishes like burnt watermelon and homemade bresaola.

Taizu

The interior design – and the menu – at Taizu are based on the five elements of Chinese philosophy: water, wood, fire, earth and metal. The restaurant pioneered “Asiaterranean” fusion, marrying street-style food from India, China, Thailand, Vietnam and Cambodia with the distinct flavours of Israel. Come for dishes like butter chicken or black tiger shrimp har gow with Jerusalem artichoke; stay for the impressive sake list and the pumping sound system that turns every weeknight into a party.

OCD Restaurant

Tel Aviv’s most celebrated fine dining experience is available to just 23 guests per evening, seated around the open kitchen. Chef Raz Rahav is passionate about not wasting food, turning kitchen scraps into plant-forward masterpieces with fermentation and other creative preserving techniques. That’s how OCD Restaurant  snagged a Sustainable Restaurant Award from Middle East and North Africa’s 50 Best Restaurants (plus spot number 14 on the list) this year, and why you’ll find dishes like asparagus ends aged in sugar for dessert. Plan your trip around a reservation for this once-in-a-lifetime tasting menu.  

Hero image: Getty Images

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